Part of the reason you are reading this article right now is because you know what bouldering is. And the other part is because you want to know more!
A part intuitive, part skill-acquiring sport, bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. The only form of protection is a pad at the base of the boulder and (ideally) your bouldering buddy who is spotting you.
Bouldering evolution
A sport on the rise especially over the last few years, bouldering remains probably one of the most accessible sports, as it doesn’t require much gear or skill to start doing it. Starting 2020 it is also an Olympic sport – marking a milestone in the sport’s history.
It is quite hard to trace back the origins of when it started – as I am pretty sure people used to climb boulders before bouldering was acknowledged as a sport or discipline. It appears to have been invented in the late 19th century and it was first documented in France, England, and Switzerland.
Bouldering in Europe
If you already know a bit about bouldering you will not be surprised to read that it started right in the beautiful forest of Fontainebleau. Originating as a form of mountaineering training, later on, it evolved into a unique discipline within climbing.
Thanks to Pierre Allain – a pioneering French climber who developed the first climbing shoes with rubber soles, basically a revolution that contributed to bouldering becoming a unique climbing discipline and a legitimate sport.
Bouldering in the US and John Gill
Highball bouldering may have begun in 1961 when John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, an American climber, gymnast, and mathematician also known for The Art of Bouldering (where he not only introduced a new grading system but also elevated bouldering to a gymnastic art) sent “The Thimble”, a steep face of 11.5 m (37 ft), V4/5 or 5.12a.
Gill’s climb was a remarkable accomplishment for its era. It also inspired other climbers to attempt scaling large boulders. Thanks to the advent of crash pads, the evolution in terms of safety, and also the power of example, climbers could take on even more challenging highball bouldering routes.
John Gill was a visionary for his time and had an undeniable contribution to the sport. His approach to the sport came from gymnastics and focused on dynamic moves, the significance of strength training as an added skill, and the use of chalk (1954) to keep climbers’ hands dry.
He believed that to improve performance in climbing, it was essential to experience lightness, flow, and grace. As a result, he introduced dynamic moves, intensive training, the use of chalk, and a B-grading system (later replaced by the V-scale of John Sherman) into bouldering. Check out our detailed guide on bouldering grades.
When it comes to successful rock climbers today, many of them have a background in gymnastics, such as Lynn Hill, Margot Hayes, and Narasaki Tomoa. Therefore, John Gill’s belief that rock climbing is an extension of gymnastics is undeniable and valid.
This is a great video about John Gill that is worth a watch:
Bouldering in the UK
Compared to France and America, the UK took a bit longer to integrate bouldering into its habits and this did not happen until 1950s.
Bouldering in the UK now has a thriving and varied scene, with numerous climbing destinations to choose from such as:
- Peak District – mostly gritstone, very busy
- Yorkshire – gritstone, slightly less busy
- Lake District – a bit more ‘out there’
- North Wales – main-stream but rarely busy
Check out our collection of guide books in our shop that cover these areas of the UK.
The tireless efforts of climbing pioneers played a crucial role in the evolution of climbing. Like Jerry Moffatt a visionary climber who revolutionised bouldering in the UK with his innovative techniques and ideas from his travels abroad.
John Gaskins was a also a key figure, who despite the controversy on several problems (John’s claims of Violent New Breed (9a+), Tranquilitas (8C), and Little Women Right Hand were called into question. Originally, John had claimed Karma of the Trees as an 8A, but it was later identified as Tranquilitas, an 8C) was a capable climbing figure who has climbed some of the hardest problems in the UK and abroad such as Anaesthesia (8A+) at Woodwell.
Modern Bouldering
Bouldering has evolved significantly since its modest beginnings and has now become a thriving global sport that brings together diverse communities and pushes the limits of physical capability and creative problem-solving.
Indoor climbing
Gravitating around gymnastics from the very beginning, Indoor Bouldering nowadays has essentially become a sport on its own. Challenges on the boulders have evolved from old-school small holds to new-school boulders or so-called comp-style moves.
A combination of climbing and gymnastics or elements of parkour, modern bouldering involves colorful holds, wild jumps, and big volumes partly the reasons why it gained immense popularity among novice climbers.
Gear
Climbing shoes are more and more grippy and efficient and don’t require killing your toes anymore. We wrote an article on that as well.
Designed to ensure safer landings, bouldering mats have become thicker and more portable while gyms are equipped with artificial climbing walls making bouldering more accessible than ever.
A safe space where beginners can learn the ropes (or rather, learn to climb without them) and experienced climbers can train and challenge themselves year-round, these indoor climbing facilities have played a crucial role in the sport’s expansion.
Life-changing mental and physical benefits
Strength and Fitness
Targeting the upper body, core, and lower body, bouldering engages multiple muscle groups that contribute to building both strength and endurance.
Balance and Coordination
Bouldering is a sport that requires precise movements and body control. To cut a long story short, one of my friends had a climbing accident that required brain surgery. The doctors didn’t give her much hope for recovery or offer many solutions for her situation.
As her family and I were searching for ways to help her, we decided to incorporate climbing and swimming into her recovery process since she used to be a passionate climber before the accident. We were amazed at how quickly she regained her overall motor skills.
Mental Focus and Problem Solving
Bouldering problems often present unique challenges that require climbers to analyse and solve them.
Accessible for Beginners
Bouldering is a great choice for beginners as it has no ropes or harnesses, simplifying the experience and making it more accessible for newcomers to enjoy the sport.
Social Interaction
Bouldering is a social activity that often takes place in indoor climbing gyms. Climbers can share experiences, offer tips, and encourage each other, all of this fostering a supportive and communal atmosphere.
Cardiovascular Health
While bouldering is not as intense as some cardiovascular exercises, it still elevates the heart rate and provides a workout, contributing to overall cardiovascular health. Some studies claim bouldering burns over 500 calories an hour!!!
Flexibility Improvement
Climbing requires a range of motion, and bouldering is no exception. Regular bouldering can contribute to increased flexibility as climbers stretch and reach for holds in various positions. I suggest reading Yoga for Climbing: A Powerful Combination if you wanna know more on this matter.
Time Efficiency
You don’t have much time? No worries! Bouldering sessions can be fitted in a quick session during lunch breaks or after work.
Adaptable to Various Skill Levels
Bouldering problems come in different grades, allowing climbers of varying skill levels to find challenges suitable for them. This adaptability makes it inclusive for both beginners and experienced climbers.
Solo Climbing
While climbing is often a social activity, bouldering can be also enjoyed solo, especially when you don’t find people available to make plans with. This allows individuals to focus on their personal goals and progress at their own pace.
Stress Relief
You tried meditation and decided you need a more dynamic approach to that? Like many physical activities, bouldering can serve as a stress reliever and can clear the mind because of the concentration required and the physical exertion involved.
Bouldering vocabulary
If you are new to bouldering you might want to get acquainted with some of the most used terms such as boulder problem, crash pad, highball project, sit start, spotting, crux, top out, or send.
Boulder problem
A sequence of moves that make up a climb, a boulder problem is very similar to mathematics because of its puzzle-like nature. It usually involves a ‘Crux’ which is the most difficult part of the puzzle.
Crash pad
From eco-friendly to specific ones for high or low falls, these are the best to protect against a possible fall. Check out our article on best crash pads.
Highball
A highball refers to a taller-than-average boulder problem that is anywhere between 15ft to 55ft. This video of Nina Williams is a good example of what a HB looks like. Based on its evolution we could say that highballing is a sub-discipline of bouldering.
Project
It’s the learning process a climber experiences when working on a route (both bouldering and rock climbing) to send it. A climbing project can take from one day to years and it involves linking moves and sections between them as well as energy, and skill improvement.
Sit start
Starting a boulder problem with hands and feet on the wall and your bum on the mat.
Spotting or Spotter
It’s the action (spotting) that happens when one is bouldering. A spotter is the person you trust the most after your parents. Here is a very useful short video on how to properly spot someone who is bouldering. Rule no.1: don’t be shy!
Top Out
Indoors or Outdoors, topping out refers to the final act of your climb and is generally what climbers aim to do when bouldering. It doesn’t necessarily involve sending.
Send
You use this word to briefly describe a completed climb that did not involve falling.
So, What is Bouldering to me?
I guess what makes bouldering so great is the fact that despite its evolution from humble origins into a discipline of its own and the global phenomenon that is today, it kept its simplicity and is accessible to climbers of all levels and ages.
So regardless if you’re a seasoned climber or a newcomer to the sport, an outdoor rock climber or you prefer indoor climbing, bouldering tackles creativity and fosters a sense of camaraderie among its enthusiasts.
To me, bouldering is about sharing betas, learning, and trying hard but it is also about laughing and supporting each other. It can be done alone or with friends, shoes, or barefoot (outdoors). Maybe the most social form of climbing, it can mean trying hard and shredding skin as well as having fun and socialising with friends.
An activity where failing is not the end of the world, and trying the same move 100 times teaches you to stay open to micro-details. Bouldering reminds me of my childhood when playing was freestyle and it usually involved jumping fences, climbing trees, and chasing lizards.
It’s also a beautiful form of support and trust (especially trusting the ones who are spotting you) while becoming a better version of yourself. That being said, choose your bouldering buddies wisely!
What is bouldering to you and what motivates you to keep trying?
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