Unparallel is a relatively new name in the climbing industry but is far from being the new kid on the block! Founded in 2017 in California, Unparallel climbing shoes are made by the team that originally formed Five Ten. Therefore their knowledge extends up to more than 20 years of know-how, including climbing shoe testing.
5.10 with a twist
Old Five Ten fans swear by Unparallel and say they’re slightly better as the fit and quality were cleared up in the rebranded version.
According to our sources, Charles Cole founded Five Ten in 1985 and Adidas purchased the Five Ten trademark in 2012. Sang Lee, who was in charge of the Five Ten production decided to found Unparallel in 2017 together with a team of former engineers. Together they managed to keep their manufacture local, in California along with the best technologies and knowledge.
The Unparallel rubber theory
Unparallel climbing shoes use two main types of rubber for their soles: rubber soft (RS) and rubber hard (RH). And a Virtual Demping (VD) one for (some of) the toe patches.
Let’s see what makes them so exceptional and if we can find you the ‘Cinderella fit’.
RS – Rubber Soft
Soft climbing shoes create more friction and they’re more precise but the rubber gets eaten faster. Therefore, RS Unparallel shoes are ideal for indoor climbing because they mold perfectly on shapes and volumes. Of course, this doesn’t mean you can’t use it soft shoes for outdoor climbing.
Depending on the shape of your shoe, the climbing style, and your personal preference, soft shoes are going to be just fine if you are not bothered by feeling what’s under your feet.
In my experience, softer shoes work equally well for vertical routes, steep boulders, and topping out slabby boulders or sports routes. I personally use them for all of that but I am also aware it’s a matter of personal preference since I am a fan of feeling the rock under my feet.
RH – Rubber Hard
Rigid climbing shoes support your toes and feet and the rubber lasts longer. Depending on the model, you usually get more edging as well. That’s why RH Unparallel shoes are best used for longer climbing days, slabs, and developing footwork while avoiding pressure on the feet.
When I climb long multi-pitches, I prefer rigid shoes because usually there is more slab climbing involved and my feet get more support throughout the day. However, it’s worth taking a closer look at models that combine RH, RS, and/or VD rubber so you decide on your own which advantages you prefer having in climbing shoes.
Unparallel offers models that combine these rubbers, such as the Qubit, for optimum performance and reaching ‘Nirvana’ in terms of stickiness, and traction.
For that make sure to keep reading to find out how they’re built, what they’re for, and which rubbers are used.
VD – Virtual Demping rubber
Is a very soft rubber used by Unparallel for the toe patch. Users swear by its stickiness and extraordinary toe hooks.
What makes Unparallel climbing shoes special?
Sizing
Usually your street size (for comfort) and a half size down for a tight fit. Therefore bye-bye confusion and faulty size charts! However, this may depend on your personal preference as well.
Extraordinary stickiness
Their rubber is based on the original Stealth (Five Ten) compounds known for being the stickiest rubber in the world.
Top climbers who trust them
- Tom Randall, one of the best crack climbers in the world known for his first free ascent on Century Crack 5.14b (8c) – one of the world’s hardest offwidth crack climbs, a co-founder of Lattice Training and Wide Boys (along with Pete Whittaker) has previously been with 5.10 and now is continuing his climbing journey with Unparallel
- Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese climber, one of the world’s best competitors who placed fourth at the Tokyo Olympics and currently owns the TN (a fully tested signature mode within the Unparallel collection)
- Solly Kemball Dorey climbed his fourth V14 FA (8B+), one of the hardest boulders in Wales “Tempest in a Teapot” wearing a Regulus
- Jennifer Wood made her First Ascent of Velika Stiniva Route 18, 8c (maybe the hardest first ascent ever by a British female) while wearing Unparallel climbing shoes
Unparallel Flagship Pro
Designed by World Cup athelete Tomoa Narasaki, the Flagship Pro were created to be able to take them straight out of the box and perform to the highest level from first wear!
Intended for overhangs and micro-edging, the Unparallel Flagship Pro is also one of the best all-around climbing shoes. A high-end model with efficient toe/heel hooking, it stands out through its aggressive downturn and shines in steeper terrain.
Thanks to its durable and built-in design, the Flagship doesn’t shy away from performing in indoor training, route climbing, or hard bouldering!
3.5 mm of RS rubber combined with good footwork make this shoe an incredible weapon for tiny footholds; not to mention the support of this shoe despite the split midsole!
Unparallel Qubit
With an aggressive shape and a long supportive RH midsole, the Qubit is what you’ll ever need for both your overhanging sessions as well as when you’re transitioning to less steep terrain.
Thanks to its technical edging design it will create micro-holds when there are none.
Not to mention the particularly unique rubber combination (3D RS molded toe patch and RH midsole) that will allow you to toe hook like never before. For the connoisseurs, Qubit is slightly wider and softer than Regulus.
Unparallel Up Mocc
The Mocc Up is simply super inviting to be tried out because they just look so comfy! Built out of smooth leather in the upper part and finished with an RH rubber full supporting sole, the Up Mocc is an all-around climbing shoe, the perfect choice when you do a little bit of everything and you get confused about what shoe to choose – because there are so many!
To me, these climbing shoes look like a multi-pitch model enhanced with bouldering qualities that combine crack climbing and slab skills. I’ve always feared this type of design that doesn’t allow velcro or lace adjustment. However,
Unparallel thought about this and used the VD toe patch to obtain an overall better hold, and a toe hook that sticks and stops it from becoming loose.
And, the price is amazingly attractive! I mean, what could you wish more?
Unparallel Leopard II
Slightly less wrapped in rubber than the other aggressive climbing shoes in the UP family, Leopard II is the softest shoe in their range.
If you’re a fan of more sensation when climbing, these might do the trick for you. With a VD rubber sole, an RS heel, and a soft midsole, the Leopard provides exceptional stickiness on plastic – which makes them an amazing indoor shoe, as well as on sandstone!
Unparallel Souped Up
At first look you can easily see the Souped Up is a top-notch bouldering shoe. A bit similar to the Flagship Pro because they share the same design idea: RH split midsole with RS toe patch (except this one is a VD), the Souped Up seems to have slightly more rubber and be even more smeary. Not to mention its amazing toe-hooking abilities! With a modern climbing design, the Souped Up is all wrapped in soft sticky rubber and stays very soft and bendy.
On one hand, these shoes are perfect in steep terrain and address those climbers who love to feel everything – even the smallest holds.
On the other hand, this rubber rocket has a split midsole RS rubber that goes very well with indoor slabs, and volumes rather than outdoor bouldering where sharp edges might get a little bit too painful for your toes! Depending on your weight, feet, and preference, the Souped Up stretches from half a size up to one full size.
However, if you are a climber like myself – who loves feeling everything under my toes because it gives me a sense of security and precision, you’ll probably want to test out your Souped Up in the outdoors as well!
Unparallel Up lace
Built with a hard rubber sole, the Unparallel Up Lace is a comfortable performance shoe dedicated to spending many hours on the wall.
On one hand, this model has a stiff midsole and rather rounded toe which makes it perfect for long vertical climbs and slabs where precision and support are needed. On the other hand, the side rubber that wraps up the shoe makes it protective enough for crack climbing. Some say it is a laced-up Godsent combo between Miura and Anasazi: only better!
Don’t be scared of the lacing system: it is so comfortable and fast to handle that it will almost feel automatic!
Phoenix from the ashes
To wrap it up, in my eyes, Unparallel is a sort of phoenix risen from the ashes only to better use the wisdom and the know-how they gained throughout the years!
With a rich history deeply rooted in the climbing community that goes back to the original 5.10, they have managed not only to support some of the world’s best climbers but also to develop an ever-greater range of specialised climbing shoes that comply with everyone’s climbing style.
I am personally impressed by the Unparallel designs and their super sticky rubber – it makes me dream big about finally developing spider skills!
Have you already tried Unparallel climbing shoes? What is your favourite model?
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Original price was: £119.99.£114.99Current price is: £114.99. Select options -
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Unparallel Qubit
Original price was: £154.99.£144.99Current price is: £144.99. Select options -
Unparallel
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Unparallel Leopard II
Original price was: £149.99.£129.99Current price is: £129.99. Select options -
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Unparallel Qubit (Low Volume)
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Unparallel Flagship (Low Volume)
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