From trying to find the best beta, choosing the right shoes, chasing the perfect temperature, and finding ways to maximise a tiny hold, I believe it’s safe to say climbing has always been a detail-oriented sport. Just like Tokyo Powder, who claim to produce the highest friction climbing chalk in the world.
So, since I couldn’t find much about it online I felt this meticulous product range needed a proper write-up!
How important is the chalk you use?
If you’re someone whose hands don’t sweat it probably isn’t. However, for the rest of us, mortals, it does! Especially if your hands sweat only by thinking about the moves on your climbing project what you choose in terms of chalking up will make the difference.
Stop complaining about your skin and become friends with it instead!
Be it low friction days, sweaty or dry skin, or 3 climbing days in a row, as climbers, we’re complaining a lot about skin. When you are a perfectionist climber like we are, one who’s not only chasing the good climbing weather but instead goes after their send in all conditions – just because you believe you can do it, good chalk becomes key to being confident.
Let me introduce you to Tokyo chalk: a detail-oriented chalk that changes the grade
Asian people are famous all around the world for being excellent at many things. Amongst others, ‘discipline’ and ‘hard work’ are the main values first cited about Asians. So let me say I am not surprised Mitsuo Yamamoto – the founder, spent so much time developing the best chalk in the world.
The adventure started back in 2008 and went through different processes until it reached a perfect state and got to be officially tested by Japanese athletes such as Rei Sugimoto, Futaba Ito, and Yuki Hata at the World Cup circuit in 2018.
A turning point in the climbing industry
Some climbers might say ‘Chalk is chalk’. But Yamamoto says otherwise ‘Every climbing situation is different so the climber has to choose the best chalk for a particular situation”.
Therefore, with a background in testing of about 16 years, Tokyo Powder insists on offering personalised friction, and improved grip according to both humid and hot/dry conditions as well as the sweaty or dry sky.
And they like doing things differently. While other climbing chalk industries get their product through a mining process, Tokyo get their refined Magnesium Carbonate straight from the sea. This not only reduces contaminants and lowers the environmental impact, but also gives an end product that is free of contaminants, harsh chemicals, and resins. Moreover, thanks to that, their chalk has a nicer texture to the skin – not too soft, not too chunky/rough.
Relationship with So iLL
If you got to check our online shop you know a bit about Tokyo chalk by now. You must also wonder why is there a So iLL logo on it. Let me break it down for you.
As you can guess, So iLL and Tokyo chalk are both climbing companies: one American, one from Japan.
In 2019 they established an equally beneficial partnership so customers from the United States/Canada along with the international market can benefit as well from this magic powder the world loves.
A wide range of chalk for different needs
Tokyo chalk not only offers you the highest friction food-grade magnesium chalk ever discovered but it also adapts to your needs. There is chalk for every season, humidty, temperature and skin type which we explore next.
Pure
Pure rises to the saying ‘Less is more’ because it insists on chalking less for better results! (Now I know what to buy as a gift for my partner! ).
It’s 100% high-purity magnesium carbonate with a smooth texture that lasts longer on your skin. Its friction is equally good in both rock climbing, bouldering and plastic environments. Recommended for dry hands and sensitive skin.
RX
This already mixed ready-to-use chalk includes the Boost for maximum grip and performance.
Despite that, it will exceed expectations on low-friction rock as well! It is the official World Cup chalk for some of the competitors, it is long-lasting and requires little quantity use.
Black
Get ready to be blown away by what this chalk can do. The Black version contains a unique drying agent, which is a blend of acidic minerals sourced from Japanese hot springs.
Therefore, this special ingredient will not only keep you climbing for longer in humid mornings/evenings, or hot afternoons but it will do so by protecting your skin balance. Perfect for climbing folks with sweaty skin who look for the best friction.
Super B
Super B stands for Super Black – because it’s the black version upgraded, for sticking it even more. Manufactured with indoor climbing in mind, this powder has an exceptional grip on plastic holds.
Check out their amazing separate boosters – as if their magical powders weren’t enough!
Boost
Is a sort of primer to rub onto your skin before chalking up. When applied together with the Black version it creates the ultimate friction.
React
Just like vitamins boost our energy levels, so does React. This magic juice is an alcohol-based spray designed to thoroughly clean your hands (and shoes) for you to enjoy the highest friction.
Together with Boost and any Tokyo chalk, it feels like cheating!
V3
Inspired by the Asian climates, the V3 was created for the very damp and humid. It’s an all-natural blend of 100% magnesium carbonate and purified water that regulates friction.
Zero TT
A very stable high friction blend that allows you to excel in outdoor environments where the conditions are ever-changing so is perfect for route climbers. It’s high stability means it can be used in all seasons, from sweaty summers to cold winters.
Tokyo range summary
Here are a couple of useful diagrams from the Tokyo team on each chalk in their range and what to use in different conditions:
What about me and what do I think about it?
My skin is normal and medium sweaty so I can’t complain too much. Even so, climbing without chalk doesn’t work for me. And climbing with a cheap one doesn’t work either. While chalk from other brands dried my hands and stayed more on the rock than on my skin, Tokyo chalk facilitated the grip I needed while also protecting it.
Given our different needs, it’s hard to determine which one is the highest friction climbing chalk in the world. Many climbers I know are okay with using any kind of chalk. Moreover, they usually choose the cheapest because they say ‘chalk is just chalk’.
On one hand, it is understandable: climbing gear can be so expensive these days that paying more for a bag of high-end climbing chalk feels like something you could do without. And it’s true there are other aspects you can improve in your climbing before buying the most expensive chalk.
However, I am a firm believer that details in life can turn an average experience into a better one. For that reason, I pinky swear this chalk does make the difference. Just find the right one for you!
Also, if you’re new here and you want to know more about chalk and how to choose it, check out our guide on how to use it, and why you need it.
Products related to this article
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Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder V3 (150g)
£19.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Black (135g/330g)
£14.99 – £19.99 Select options -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Pure (135g/330g)
£11.99 – £16.99 Select options -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Super B (200g)
£21.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder RX (150g)
£19.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Zero TT (200g)
£21.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder React (90ml)
£19.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Boost (15g)
£12.49 Add to basket
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Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder V3 (150g)
£19.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Black (135g/330g)
£14.99 – £19.99 Select options -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Pure (135g/330g)
£11.99 – £16.99 Select options -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Super B (200g)
£21.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder RX (150g)
£19.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Zero TT (200g)
£21.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder React (90ml)
£19.99 Add to basket -
Tokyo Powder
Tokyo Powder Boost (15g)
£12.49 Add to basket
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