Whether you’re a seasoned climber or just starting out, climbing competitions offer something for everyone. So here’s our guide explaining the different formats of indoor climbing competitions, what to expect in training, and getting in.
What is an indoor climbing competition?
A climbing competition is an event where climbers put their skills to the test on specific climbing routes or problems within a controlled setting.
These competitions can vary widely, from small local events hosted by gyms to large-scale international events like the World Cups and the Olympics.
Climbing competitions provide an occasion to showcase mental, physical, and problem-solving skills and to celebrate the sport, an event, or the community.
What are the common types of indoor climbing competitions?
Indoor climbing competitions hosted in gyms come in various formats, catering to climbers of all skill levels.
The different types of indoor climbing competitions for gyms are divided into three main disciplines: Bouldering, Lead Climbing, and Speed Climbing.
1. Bouldering competitions
Bouldering competitions are the heart of climbing’s dynamic and creative side. Imagine stepping into a room with padded floors ready for you to fall on and walls full of colours.
Boulder routes are short but packed with problems and challenges and demand skills such as mental agility, dynamism, and power.
Walls are typically 3-4 meters high and since there are no ropes here, you are going to have to rely 100% on the mats below you – and your falling skills.
Although pads were designed for keeping you safe during falls I strongly advise against falling from the top of the routes as you might injure yourself.
I find the atmosphere in a bouldering competition is electric, especially in the finals you get to watch climbers closely.
Here’s an example of an average climber vs a crusher trying out comp-style boulder problems within a set time limit.
Focus in bouldering competitions:
Power, technique, problem-solving in a limited number of attempts, and staying calm.
Common Formats:
Redpoint: Climbers attempt multiple problems and score points based on the difficulty of completed climbs.
Onsight: Climbers get only one chance to attempt each problem without prior knowledge.
Want to know more about bouldering? Make sure to check out our guide What is Bouldering? Everything you need to know.
2. Lead climbing competitions
Imagine standing at the base of a 15m high wall, you have your harness on, a person you trust as a belayer and as you look up you see a series of holds waiting for you to grab. Your task? Solving the mental puzzle as fast as you can and getting as high as you can.
Lead climbing is not just about strength – it’s a test of your endurance and mental skill. As you go up you are also reading the moves, looking for the best way to use your body.
When your body starts to ache that’s when you have to push through and stay focused.
In competitive lead climbing, particularly in international events, you get only one attempt at each route. There’s no second chance, so every move is a calculated decision.
In gym competitions, however, climbers often have multiple attempts to try the same route, giving them a chance to fine-tune their technique and improve on each try.
As you climb, you’ll be clipping your rope into quickdraws placed along the wall for safety.
The higher you go, the more points you earn, with each successful hold you reach adding to your score.
Focus on lead climbing competitions:
Endurance, route-reading, mental resilience, and staying calm.
Common Formats:
Onsight: Climbers attempt a route without prior practice or observation.
Flash: Competitors can watch others attempt the route before their turn.
3. Speed climbing competitions
A speed climbing competition is an intense, fast-paced event that takes place on a standardized 15-meter vertical wall, where the goal is simple: race against the clock and your opponent to reach the top. It’s all about speed, precision, and explosiveness.
This format leaves no room for hesitation and compared to lead or bouldering is less about intricate problem-solving and more about raw physical performance, power, and endurance, requiring explosive moves and quick footwork.
At the sound of the buzzer, both climbers race up the wall on a top rope (rope coming from above, no belayer required). The fastest to reach the top, touching the final hold and triggering the timer to stop, wins the race.
The excitement is palpable, and the crowd is on the edge of their seats, cheering on the climbers as they battle for the fastest time.
Here is an example of what a speed-climbing competition looks like.
Focus on speed climbing competitions:
Time, perfecting speed technique, finding the optimal rhythm, explosive power, and staying calm.
Common Format:
Head-to-Head: Climbers compete directly against each other in elimination rounds based on time.
Each has distinct rules, formats, and physical demands. Some events, such as those in the Olympics, feature a combined format that tests climbers’ versatility across all disciplines.
Do you want to understand the Olympic format better? We wrote a full guide for you here.
Four reasons why competitions are beginner-friendly
Over the years the climbing community has focused more and more on inclusivity and making everyone feel welcome. That’s why most of the time these events offer categories for all skill levels and social backgrounds, including children and adaptive climbers, promoting accessibility.
Unless they’re official competitions for pro athletes, such competing events always include beginner-friendly route-setting.
After all, one of the goals is to make climbers happy and attract new ones.
1. Separate categories by skill level
Most competitions have route setters specifically design problems for all categories (e.g., beginner, intermediate, advanced) so that climbers face challenges appropriate for their level.
Therefore you won’t have to compete against elite climbers and moreover, you’ll find boulders that focus on basic techniques.
This way your experience is less intimidating and it can become a great learning opportunity.
2. Inclusive atmosphere
Climbing competitions are generally welcoming and supportive. Fellow climbers and spectators often cheer for everyone, regardless of skill level.
The emphasis is on personal growth and having fun rather than just winning.
3. Flexible format
Many competitions, especially local or gym-based ones, use a “redpoint” format. In this format, climbers can attempt routes as many times as they want within the time limit, reducing pressure.
Moreover, some events are not even competitive and they focus on pure participation and social gathering rather than keeping score.
Such as International women’s day, Christmas Party, or Halloween.
4. Sense of accomplishment
Participating, regardless of the outcome, can boost your confidence and motivate you to keep improving.
Four reasons why you should join a climbing competition
You like competitions but the idea of being in one makes you nervous? Understandable. However, while the idea of competing can feel intimidating, remember there is no real reason to feel nervous because there is no real thing at stake (like the case of the Olympics).
Indoor climbing competitions are a great way to not only test your skills in an official setting but also to meet other climbers, and have fun!
Moreover, whether it’s a bouldering comp, sports climbing, speed, or combined, the route setting for “just for fun” competitions is usually also beginner-friendly.
1. An occasion to experiment with how competing feels and push your limits
If you’ve never participated in a competition before, it’s a fantastic opportunity to see how climbing feels under time pressure. The secret is to not expect too much and just be open to surprise yourself.
Personally, I find that competing puts me in a heightened state of focus, and I tend to climb much better than I do on regular gym days.
Additionally, I can apply the skills and experience I gain during competitions to my future climbing sessions.
2. Connect with people and/or make new friends
Climbing competition events usually host climbers from various places. Therefore, if you’re looking to expand your circle of friends or simply enjoy a fun group activity with your friends, indoor competitions present a great opportunity for that.
3. Have fun and do your best to win prizes
Indoor competitions often come with exciting prizes, typically in the form of climbing gear.
Whether you make it to the podium or not, it’s always fun to give your all for a chance to win something valuable, be it a climbing rope, bouldering shoes, chalk, or even a bouldering pad.
The fun lies in pushing your limits and aiming for the podium for those rewards!
4. It’s good training for outdoor bouldering and rock climbing
If you’re a rock rat just like I am, competing and training on artificial walls will only make you bolder and stronger for outdoor climbing.
So, if none of the reasons I’ve mentioned motivate you to participate in a competition, you can simply view it as valuable training.
6 tips on how to get into a climbing competition like a pro
1. Find a climbing competition
Usually climbing gyms regularly host climbing events for the broader community and their members are the first ones to find out about them.
However, if you’re hooked on competing you can also look up local climbing groups for events in your area.
Following gym social media pages is also a good idea to stay up to date.
If you want to get serious about climbing and competing in both bouldering and leading, get in touch with a climbing coach and find climbing organizations like national clubs or IFSC.
2. Register in advance
Most competitions allow you to sign up online via the gym’s website or an event registration platform. Some smaller events allow same-day registration at the gym.
Regardless of which one you choose or is available, be ready to pay a registration fee, which typically ranges from £10 to £50, depending on the competition.
3. Train for the event
Even if it’s not the Olympics you’re after it’s still nice to focus on the competition you’ve chosen by practicing your climbing skills beforehand and developing new ones that can help you adapt to the competition environment.
An idea would be training by having specific goals in mind that are specific to competition such as dynamic moves, slab climbing, and speed.
For more, check out Competition Climbing Tips – Indoors at The Depot Gym
4. Read the rules to avoid surprises
A player needs to know his game and this starts with the rules. Be aware of the hour when the competition starts, the scoring system, and how points are awarded (attempts, tops, zones) if there is a time limit, etc.
Important: Always follow gym rules and respect other climbers by waiting your turn.
Here are 11 unspoken rules of climbing indoors.
5. Prepare for the competition day
Depending on the competition format, competition days tend to last a full day so be ready for it by making sure you get enough sleep, and ideally don’t drink alcohol the night before.
If the idea of competing makes you slightly nervous try not to talk about it too much and do relaxing activities instead.
More importantly, check your backpack and make sure you have everything you need to climb the next day.
Bonus tip: Arrive early so you have time to check in, warm up, and get into the mood. Something unclear? Ask the staff for clarification.
6. Last and most important: Climb and have fun
Every competitive event requires preparation. However, try not to take yourself too seriously; remember that the whole point is to have fun, meet people, experiment, and see the competition as a form of training.
Essential tips for newbies competing in climbing
- Ask questions: Don’t hesitate to ask staff or other climbers for advice.
- Focus on having fun: Treat it as a learning experience rather than a high-stakes competition.
- Warm up properly: Prepare your body to avoid injury and climb better. In this regard, make sure to read our training guides especially tailored for beginners but not only!
Why do climbing gyms organize climbing events?
Most of the events climbing gyms organise fall in the “just for fun category”. However, some of the best gyms do hold official competitions that further qualify climbers for other international or national climbing events such as the National Championships, World Cups, Continental Championships, and the Olympics.
Although all of them include bouldering, lead, and speed each has its own qualification requirements, format, and scoring system.
Here’s a breakdown of the motivations of gyms that fall in the “just for fun” category”
1. Community building, fostering connection and local networking
Competitions provide an occasion for climbers to meet, socialise, and share their passion for the sport.
2. Promoting climbing as a sport, inspiring others, and as training motivation
Competitions are a display of both strength and the creativity involved in climbing. Whether you’re climbing or just there to watch, this can be an incredibly entertaining experience!
Moreover, climbing competitions can be super inspiring and can be a way for you to improve your skills or try new challenges.
Competitions often encourage participants to train harder, deepening their commitment to the sport
3. Attracting new customers
As a climber myself I know how important variety is in climbing and competitions are a great occasion to try out new climbing styles.
As a result, non-members might be inspired to join after the event.
Additionally, events like bouldering competitions give visibility to a gym and often attract sponsors, and media attention, serving as advertising for the gym.
4. Generating Revenue
Entry Fees: Participation fees can bring in income.
Sponsorships: Events often attract sponsors who may provide funding or prizes in exchange for visibility.
Merchandise Sales: Climbing gear or gym-branded merchandise often sells well during events.
5. Training purposes and supporting the climbing community
Many indoor climbing competitions not only serve as exciting events but also serve as valuable training opportunities for some of the best climbers in the field.
These competitions provide a relaxed and enjoyable environment where experienced athletes can sharpen their skills and test new techniques without the pressure of formal events.
Additionally, these competitions often feature new climbers, giving them a chance to showcase their abilities and gain valuable experience from both participating and learning from the best.
Why indoor climbing competitions are your next big adventure
Climbing competitions are a celebration of the climbing community, an opportunity for personal growth, and a chance to connect with like-minded enthusiasts.
Whether you’re a seasoned climber exploring new challenges, or a beginner curious to test the waters, there’s something for everyone in the world of climbing competitions.
So why wait? Find a local event, register, and discover how competing can add to your climbing journey.
Your next great adventure is waiting on the wall!
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