The nuance of beta – Finding beauty in the micro movements

Climbing isn’t just about raw strength or endurance; sometimes, it’s about putting climbing under a microscope, exploring the nuance of beta, and finding beauty in micro-movements.

How much does mastering these subtle details matter in completing a boulder problem? And how do you learn more about it? Let’s explore how to navigate from A to Z and level up your climbing approach.

What do you need to know about climbing beta?

Beta in climbing can be about finding the best sequence to climb a boulder, better gripping a key hold in the crux, or placing your feet. Knowing how to read climbing beta can improve not just the way you perform on the climbing wall but also your social connection with other climbers.

Exchanging beta can be a fun social tool for other climbers to connect.

Some climbers dislike receiving climbing beta, other climbers bond over it and love sharing climbing challenges and solving boulder problems together.

However, in climbing there are two golden rules one must know.

Here’s an introduction to the beta sharing etiquette.

1. Are you a sprayer or a climbing sprayee?

Beta spraying is giving unsolicited climbing advice – and it’s a sensitive thing in climbing.

While some climbers don’t mind knowing all the moves beforehand, others love and enjoy the discovery process and prefer to figure out the route themselves.

Solution? Ask before offering advice and be ready to receive “no” for an answer.

2. Respect on-sight attempts

An on-sight attempt is when a climber tries to complete a route or a boulder by climbing it without having previous information.

It’s one of the purest forms of climbing which, to some, is very important.

Respecting someone’s attempt to on-sight and stopping yourself from oversharing beta is very important.

Projecting vs. on-sight: Two paths that lead to growth

A recent conversation with a friend brought up a common debate we often find in the climbing community. Is projecting worth it, or is on-sight climbing more rewarding?

My friend finds projecting boring and to him successfully climbing a problem on the first attempt is infinitely more rewarding than spending days projecting it.

What do I think? Undoubtedly I love to climb on-sight, especially when I am traveling and climbing.

But at the same time, I find that projecting in climbing, even if it takes me longer, gives me unique opportunities to learn.

Ever since I started going it I grew as a climber and here’s what has changed ever since:

• I onsight harder grades
• I climb more efficiently
• I can identify more rest positions

Why? Through projecting we understand better how our body should climb and what it would take for us to complete a boulder problem or sports route.

The truth is falling over and over on a project gives us a chance to rethink our climbing approach.

For me, projecting is about appreciating the process as much as the send. In focusing on micro-movements, you unlock the details that can make or break a climb.

Although I think everyone is different, that day I felt sorry for my friend and I thought, in a way, he’s missing out on climbing.

How to master micro-movements in climbing

Identifying micro-movements in climbing is observing and refining the subtle shifts in body position, balance, and technique.

Paying attention to how much force is applied (and where) when we initiate a movement is critical to climbing efficiently and precisely.

Here’s a breakdown of how to identify micro-movements and improve them:

1. Understanding micro movements

Micro-movements are the small adjustments climbers make, consciously or not, to optimise climbing for better weight distribution, to conserve energy, or prepare for the next move.

A micro movement can be as minor as shifting a toe slightly, adjusting hip position, or fine-tuning grip pressure on a hold.

2. Self analysis

Self analysis makes me think about those reels or memes we often find in social media ‘How I see myself’ vs ‘Reality’?

Regardless of your climbing level, watching yourself climb can be as valuable as training.

The easiest and best way to do that is by recording your climbing sessions and, sometimes, having a coach or a climbing partner watch you climb.

Feet: Are your foot placements precise?

The more precise your footwork is, the better you’ll climb.

Here’s how to improve your climbing footwork, and become more accurate and precise.

Hips: Is your bum sticking out?

When your bum is sticking out you’ll automatically overuse the arms this is something you want to save for later.

The hips are your center of gravity and by keeping them close to the wall, climbing will get more controlled and overall feel easier.

Avoid your bum sticking out while climbing by working on your core strength. You can easily do that through deadlifts.

Here are the types of deadlifts you can do.

Arms: Are they bent or straight?

In regular climbing, keeping the arms straight decreases the load on your hands by transferring it to your feet.

Here’s a climbing basics series for climbing with straight arms

Posture: Do you have bad posture and stiff shoulders while climbing?

Did you ever wonder why on the same boulder, all of a sudden, you have less reach despite doing the same moves?

Introducing new movement can mean extra physical stress for the body – it’s nothing bad, it’s just new. And your body needs time to integrate it.

For beginners in bouldering, this can translate into stiff shoulders and tension in the upper back – and climbing with raised shoulders is something you don’t want.

How to avoid climbing with raised shoulders or poor posture, and stop limiting your reach and flexibility?

Here’s how to improve your posture through targeted exercises for stronger shoulders in rock climbing and bouldering.

3. Mindful climbing

Through my yoga practice, I learned that setting an intention before I begin something is essential to deepen my connection to the process.

Try setting an intention before each climb. Notice how every move feels.

Experiment with foot placements, and slight shifts to better understand where your center of gravity is and in which position you feel less tired.

How to cultivate finding beauty in micro movement

Focusing on micro movement in climbing is important for both beginners and more advanced climbers. I think with time and experience climbers only unlock new levels of the micro movement.

Therefore they’re able to climb better, onsight more, and climb their projects in fewer days.

But as my fellow climber friend says, the work of a climber never ends – and that means there is always something new to learn and refine in beta.

Key takeaways:

• Projecting offers unique growth opportunities: Embrace the learning process: it’s a powerful way to improve your climbing.
• Beta is both personal and social: Respect others’ preferences in beta-sharing and when possible use it as a tool to connect with fellow climbers when appropriate.
• Focus on micro-movements: Pay attention to footwork, hips, posture, and arm positioning to climb more efficiently.
• Climb mindfully: Experiment with subtle adjustments and tune into how your body moves to unlock new levels of skill and awareness in climbing.

What micro-movement have you discovered that was unique to your climbing journey?

Share your experiences with us.

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