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Technique tips: Best advice for bouldering beginners

Things can get pretty intimidating when going to the boulder gym for the first time. With all those advanced climbers who warm up on V8/7b routes while you struggle on V3/6a. There must be something else, right? I mean, you consider yourself a pretty fit person but still get pumped after the warmup.

Well, what separates climbers who are at the same level of strength is this thing called technique. There is this saying in bouldering and rock climbing in general that you should always try to climb as efficiently as possible. This means applying the proper technique to your moves so your body won’t get tired quickly.

A proper technique brings a series of advantages:

  • You won’t get tired as fast
  • You can climb for extended periods of time
  • Injury prevention
  • Faster progression

Mastering a good bouldering technique is key to ensuring progression and you’ll get to leave the beginner boulder routes in no time.

So here’s a set of bouldering technique tips that will most definitely take you to your first V3/6a flash when you visit the boulder gym next time.

Tip #1: Climb with your legs

It might sound counterintuitive, but consciously using your legs will considerably take the pressure off your hands, even on an overhang. Beginner boulderers will focus all their strength on their hands and get pumped almost instantly.

By putting more weight on your feet, you’ll see how things feel much, let’s say, lighter. This happens because you’ll be using your legs to push yourself up on the wall rather than pull yourself, and as we all know, your legs are stronger than your hands.

Tip #2: Work on your footwork

So even in climbing, you cannot skip a leg day. It’s becoming pretty clear that a great deal of your climbing will come from the lower half of your body.

Mastering your footwork will bring you lots of advantages, such as increased grip, more mobility, and, of course, an extra inch, which we all need when the next hold is SO CLOSE but so far.

Using the tip of your shoe rather than the whole sole of the shoe will engage your calves, and you’ll have better support. Because of the shoe shape, the most grippy and strong point is always the tip. While using this technique, you might encounter the infamous “Elvis foot” syndrome, where your legs start shaking. By simply lowering your heel, you’ll see how everything becomes more relaxed and under control.

A good way to exercise your footwork is through the so-called “silent climbing”. Instead of struggling to place your foot on the next hold while banging your shoes on the wall, try placing the tip of your shoe in a very precise way without making any sound.

The second exercise is to experiment with positions on the wall by swapping your feet. Try to see what positions work and which throw you off balance.

Tip #3: Hand placement and positioning

You’ll notice that a lot of beginner boulderers start climbing with bent arms. It looks cool and gets you a great pump, but in order to improve, extended arms are always better and more energy-efficient. By keeping your arms extended, not only will you have a better reach for the next holds, but you will also look better when climbing, so points to style (win-win-win).

Another great tip for efficient bouldering is to avoid over-gripping the holds. It’s nice to imagine that the holds are very sensitive, and you should always apply a precise amount of pressure, just enough to get you past the section. By squeezing the holds harder than necessary, you’ll waste a lot of energy, not to mention that your fingers will get sore faster.

Tip #4: Check your body position

The purpose of bouldering and rock climbing, in general, is, of course, to reach the top of the route. Well, it’s only logical to try and reach the highest hold possible, right? Not really, by hyperextending, you’ll lose sight of your next foothold and also might get stuck with limited positions to make a good move.

Keeping your body more flexed offers you freedom of movement and a better flow. In order to do this, always have your foot positioning in check.

A great way to be more aware of your position on the wall is to keep your hips close to the wall. By bringing your bottom closer to the wall, you’ll have better balance, your body will be more relaxed, and you won’t put unnecessary pressure on your upper body. Hips closer to the wall also mean a better field of vision, as you can lean back and examine the holds.

Tip #5: Learn the must-know moves

Now that you have theoretical knowledge of a good bouldering technique, let’s try mixing everything in order to experiment with some efficient moves that will make your climbs easier.

Check out our in-depth article on the must-know moves that will change your perspective on climbing and make you a master boulderer with just a few quick body shifts.

Tip #6: Practice climbing down

Climbing down the wall is a great opportunity to exercise foot placement and control your body position. Also, it brings a whole lot of advantages, such as increasing your core strength, making you more aware of the moves, and improving your endurance.

Also, bear in mind that jumping from the top hold repeatedly is bad for your back as it can cause spinal cord injuries.

Tip #7: Ignore the grades

Bouldering is the kind of activity that lets you experiment with all sorts of moves, positions, and grades of difficulty. Don’t let yourself be intimidated by the grade given to a specific problem. If it looks tempting, go for it. Fall, try something else, because every move you make is an opportunity to evolve, know yourself better, and become a better climber.

Working on sections of hard climbs can and will help you increase your climbing skills, and you’ll be able to send that V8 you’ve had your eye on since you joined the gym in no time.

Also, try to spend time with more advanced climbers. They will share valuable insight and give you the best beta when working on a problem.

Tip #8: Be patient with yourself

I often hear bouldering described as a frustrating sport, especially by beginners. It’s indeed a pretty straightforward activity that will slam you to the ground if you’re not ready to approach a problem.

At the same time, remember that bouldering and rock climbing are supposed to be fun and not transformed into a competition of who progresses faster. Every climber develops in his or her own unique way and excels at different styles.

Avoid overworking yourself. Take a rest day, take time to analyze your route in advance, and make a mental map. Offer yourself time to reflect, because remember that it is a psychological sport as well as a physical one.

Tip #9: Train harder

Work on developing a training program. You’ll be amazed at how fast you’ll go up on the progression scale with proper training. You can work on this plan with a specialist or do your own research.

Building strength will most definitely make you more relaxed on the wall and increase your stamina. You can do this in so many ways, from campus boarding to home exercises you can find online.

Tip #10: Get the proper gear

And I’m referring mostly to the shoes. Get the shoes that you need, not the ones that look more high-end. Your first climbing shoes will shape the way you feel about bouldering. If they are tight and uncomfortable, you might not fall in love with the sport too quickly. Try buying them from a specialised dealer who can help you with fitting, and if you’re going to buy them online, be sure to do good research and get something built for your level of experience.

Wrapping up

Before going outside, you should take into consideration exercising your bouldering technique at the gym. Developing good indoor bouldering techniques will help you transition faster to the outside problems, which frankly feel a little bit harder compared to the plastic holds inside.

Bouldering is not only a game of strength but also a mental game and while you have mastered technique, these next tips will help you stay focused and become more confident on your moves.

Of course, the complex world of bouldering is made up of many variables and tips and tricks. Mastering these tips is kind of the starter pack to get your wheels in motion. Being conscious, present, and engaged in your activity might be the first things you should focus on while starting your new boulder gym life.

Read good and inspiring literature and see what the pros have to say about various techniques, nutrition, and the process of sending some of the most gnarly problems out there.

Bring your friends to the gym, have a good time, and make a habit of spending your free time training and checking out how to become a better boulderer.

Remember, it’s a fun sport, and don’t let competitiveness get the best of you. Also, don’t rush into progressing; you’ll turn out to be a great boulderer only if you give yourself the time needed to get there.

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