Maybe the most appealing corner in a climbing gym, slab climbing is probably the first style of climbing that you tried out (without knowing it’s called that) when you started climbing.
Some pro climbers such as Jenya Kazbekova, Talo Martin, or Anna Hazelnutt mastered this climbing discipline so keep on reading and we’ll make sure you find out too how to not suck at slab.
Anyway, what is slab climbing?
Slab climbing is one particular climbing style that involves progressing by using balance and friction-dependent moves on flat surfaces, edging on very small crimps or bumps, and/or volumes. It can be done both indoors and outdoors.
Big debate: Is slab climbing counterintuitive or not?
Let’s agree to disagree. To me, it used to be the most natural thing in the world when I started climbing. Why? Science says one of the strongest muscles in the body is in your legs – and slab climbing is all about legs!
At first, my notions of climbing were scarce and my arms were cute gummy bears so I could not possibly make any assumptions about the climbing style I should be getting into.
I do remember one thing clear as the light of day: more seasoned climbers often told me that climbing is all about feet and not hands – and they were right, in the long term.
Therefore, my main concern in the beginning was to figure out how to use these feet to top out.
Slab climbing as a way to improve climbing performance
I used to do a lot of slab climbing as a beginner and this is how I understood how important mobility is. Not to mention the power of footwork.
As a result, I got better at body movement and awareness and learned to trust my feet when my arms were tired or there were no handholds.
Climbing, regardless of the style (slab, overhang, vertical, bouldering, sports climbing) is, more or less, in different doses about balance, footwork, mind game, and ultimately muscles.
Depending on which climbing style you are more inclined into, your skills will naturally evolve in different directions and later on, need you to work on different strengths and weaknesses.
In my case, when I started trying out different climbing styles such as overhang, even though this demanded some core and upper body strength, I felt the abilities I gained while slab climbing helped me to have a good flow and balance on the wall, and trust using my feet on tiny holds.
I find that knowing you have good footwork helps with committing to certain climbing movements too such as topping out a boulder or moving in between bolts when rock climbing.
Therefore, regardless of what type of climber you are: climbing gym bro, rock master, boulder monkey, or crag junky, slab climbing can be seen as a base in climbing.
How to not suck at slab climbing
Slab climbing can feel scary at times especially if your indoor wall also has scary big volumes that threaten your knees. Therefore falling and risking an injury, twisting an ankle, or hitting your face is not very appealing.
When it comes to slab climbing on rock, leading a route can feel scary for so many reasons – as well as toping out a highball boulder.
But let me tell you something: These very bad scenarios are usually a product of our brains trying to protect us from the unknown.
The secret to that is practicing. Starting slow and easy while applying some simple rules to enhance your slab wall climbing techniques is key to nailing it.
Let’s find out how you can enjoy slab climbing more!
First rule: Start easy
You don’t need big muscles to climb slabs. However, you’ll need to cultivate balance and work on your footwork.
To do that, choose a boulder problem that is motivating enough to challenge your learning skills without putting yourself in dangerous situations and/or uncomfortable mindsets.
Second rule: Commit to the movement
I guess this one goes in general for climbing especially when it comes to dynamic starts and moves. If your boulder involves running, commit to doing it without hesitation. The same goes for jumping – confidence is key to success!
Third rule: Visualisation
Try to always identify where is the best place for your foot to land, before committing to the move. If you are not sure about it, try the move beforehand if you can by putting yourself into the position your body should be landing on the wall.
If you aim for a big volume or a jug make sure to look towards where you want your hands to be and imagine yourself grabbing them.
A way to stick and keep your balance on volumes is by keeping your feet as close to the edge, so as far as possible from the wall, while leaning onto it.
Work on your footwork
Learning to trust your feet is imperative. When placing your foot on a small hold, try to cover as much surface as possible.
When climbing on a slab volume always stay close to the edges and look for a 90-degree angle – it will keep you closer to the wall and help you apply forces right.
Is it slab climbing or hip climbing?
For some people climbing with open hips can be a challenge. Discover how your hips can help you progress by working on their flexibility. For more on that, make sure you read our guide on Why climbing flexibility matters and how you can improve it.
Trying is winning. Dont be afraid to keep on trying
Just because you did not manage to flash your boulder it doesn’t mean is too hard for you. Instead, see what there is to learn in it for you. Learning is fun and climbing is all about both!
Learn from the best
Climbers, pros, or beginners are usually friendly people so don’t shy away from asking advice from those who are more experienced than you are.
But until you do that, here is one very educational indoor slab climbing video with tips and tricks and examples at its best.
Slab climbing requires practice and skill
Let me tell you a story. Last year I went with a friend to check out some boulders in the South Alps. My friend was injured so we decided to climb some “easy” granite slabs.
The moment I went up, the midway boulder I felt very tense and rigid, and not because I felt tired.
But because I had realised that despite being able to comfortably climb between V8 – V11 on vertical and overhang terrain, I had completely forgotten how to climb slabs!
What happened? I realised that me being good on slabs was a faraway memory. In reality, it looked like my skills were completely rusty and I needed to go back to the basics a little bit.
Not having that many handholds and having to rely 100% on my feet made me wonder if working my slab skills from time to time will actually improve my overall climbing!
You can easily test my “theory” in the following video of Talo Martin on Slab Education – even the strongest climbers vertical or overhang can sometimes struggle with trusting their feet.
A great video for beginners in slab climbing
Check out this outstaning video of 10 Easy Climbing Techniques Taught by a Slab Expert. Here, Emily shares valuable insight, step by step, for all the climbers who are new to slab and want to better understand the movement.
Slab climbing made look easy
Do you have an intermediate climbing level and you want to step up your slab game? Here are 12 Slab Climbing Techniques for intermediate climbers again, with Emily, the slab climbing coach.
Learn how to approach a boulder problem by doing
You are sitting in front of your boulder and you have no idea what to do. How about you go give it a try and see what your body is telling you? Slab climbing is like dancing – be fluid and let go.
It can feel quite intuitive if you just allow your mind and body to experiment.
Trying and failing is succeeding in the end
Watch Tom Randall and Anna Hazelnutt having fun on maybe one of the World’s Longest Indoor Slab | V4? V11?. Probably one of the most unique videos there is online.
Here you can watch the two setting up an indoor boulder (and setting it) that basically includes all the existing bouldering slab styles and moves there are:
Friction slab style
Palming, smearing, down climb, and mantle.
Edging slab style
Hard crimps, high steps, little holds, piano match, and high step rock-over.
Competition slab style
Thundercling or undercut, step through such as dynamic movements.
If you want to read more about bouldering moves in slabs such as rock over, smearing, edging mantle, and more, make sure to read our bouldering technique guide.
Things a climber should know about slab climbing
Apart from the know-how, I feel we should dive into some slab climbing culture and climbers who master it at a high level.
The world’s hardest slabs in the world
Disbelief is one of the hardest slab lines in the world, at Acephale, Canamore, Canada. Sent by Ondra, this limestone route is said to be at the upper end of 5.15b with a V15 boulder problem.
Cryptography is a 5.15b at Saint Loup, in Switzerland. Alessandro Zeni, an Italian climber was the first to send this amazing line, maybe one of the hardest in the world.
The Meltdown 5.14d was bolted in 1980, and freed by James McHaffie in 2012. Later on, repeated in 2018 by Spanish climber Ignacio Mulero, this route is located in North Wales, at Tyll Mawr near Llanberis.
Tips and tricks from the ‘slab king’, Talo Martin
Let me introduce you Talo Martin, 42: he is a Spanish climber who fell in love with slab climbing so he decided he would master it! Talo is known for conquering difficult slab climbing routes, including numerous 5.14 graded routes and some of the best slabs in the world.
He has also completed V12 graded slab boulder problems and he loves making FA (first ascents). He founded SLABDUCATION and apart from being a professional climber and a father, he is also a filmmaker and photographer.
In the past years, Talo’s been putting a lot of work into developing the climbing areas around his home such as La Pedriza, a crag just a 35-minute drive from the airport of Madrid.
With 7,000 routes and 5,000 boulder problems, La Pedriza can be easily called one of the best slab areas in Europe. Let’s call it the Font of Spain.
So we reached out to Talo to ask him some questions on slab climbing.
Q: What makes slab climbing special to you?
A: To me, slab climbing is another sport in terms of difficulty, especially when it starts to become harder than 7c.
Your climbing needs to be very precise, you are very balance-dependent, and you basically rely a lot on a piece of rubber under your feet.
Q: Do you have any fears when slab climbing? Which?
A: No, I don’t think I have a particular fear. Normally in climbing, I don’t. However, I do believe slab climbing has a bad reputation because of the runouts but from my experience when there is a runout is because that section is easy.
Some historic sport routes are indeed bolted with runouts so they are more demanding mentally.
So I’d say in general is important as well to know which routes to choose for you to climb.
Q: Which is your biggest asset/advantage in slab climbing?
A: Having strong fingers is an advantage I have and that I maintain by bouldering. Another is the climbing shoes.
I use La Sportiva Mythos and I think it’s very important to find the right pair for you; one that fits you well and you feel comfortable with, as tight as you want or need.
If you climb with the wrong climbing shoes, the wrong rubber, and the wrong size you won’t feel anything at all.
Q: What is the ultimate slab route you dream of climbing?
A: Well, there is a route I’ve been on and off trying for 10 years that I would like to send. It’s a slab 8c+ that has never been climbed. But it’s going to take a while to climb it since Winters close to my home are becoming water and warmer.
Those days of climbing south face on cloudy days and cold winters are long gone and climbing on South faces nowadays can involve waking up early or even sleeping at the foot of the crag because of the long approaches.
As for other places, at some point, I would like to go back to Madagascar and try some hard routes.
But in true honesty, I don’t really dream of going away from my home to climb the best slabs in the world because I truly believe the place I live in really has the best ones. (lol)
There are around 50 routes between 8a and 8c +. I don’t think there is a place in a world with such an amount of hardcore slabs, rock of great quality, and FA’s.
Q: What would be the first advice you would give to someone trying to master slab climbing?
A: Everything is important: the shoes, the length of your nails to be able to climb any small crystal. Just relax your hips and learn to know your own body and feel the movement. Try to separate your breath from your body and let it flow.
Q. Are there tips and tricks you’d like to share concerning slab climbing?
A: All the tricks I know I learned by myself and I believe the best way to learn them is through your own practice. Of course, in my slab education courses, I say “You can do this, or that” but I am aware some of them don’t work for everybody.
So in the end is about practising by yourself and keeping your ears open for more knowledge; and then practice some more and that’s it.
To wrap it up…
Intimidating and counterintuitive at first, as soon as you realise slab climbing is really all about legs, breathing, and following the momentum, you’ll be able to access new body postures and movement awareness.
In my opinion, slab climbing is, if not the primary foundation of good climbing, at least an important part of a good foundation.
And remember, when in doubt, keep in mind the angle of slab climbing usually creates natural friction, therefore, as long as you keep breathing you’ll be just fine.
Products related to this article
Lattice Training
0 Comments