Climbing barefoot: How to climb V17 with no shoes

In a world where I get picky about the climbing shoes I wear, there are climbers who are bouldering barefoot.

While I get anxious about foot placements on small edges when the tip of my shoes starts rounding up, Charles Albert sends Font V17/9a barefoot and projects Rastaman Vibration (below) together with Seb Bouin, FA by Alex Megos (9b in Céüse, Fr). Shoeless, again.

There must be something we are missing here. And most importantly, how is it possible to climb V17 barefoot?

Life taught me that just because something is unheard of to you it doesn’t mean it’s not possible…or new.

Shoes are a human-made invention, and despite other people who are practicing barefoot walking, sport without shoes is generally a new thing in the Modern World.

Are climbing shoes important in climbing?

Let’s agree to disagree because here I am, years later, writing this article having Charles Albert in mind. The man is a young French climber living in the forest of Fontainebleau who made boulders such as Off the Wagon look easy.

He also managed to send barefoot other 8c and 8c+ boulder problems. Moreover, he, later on, climbed L’Ombre du Voyageur (see video below). A mind-blowing roof crack using toe crimping for which he proposed V17/9a.

On a second look, other climbers are doing it too

Chris Sharma does a lot of DWS (deep water solo) barefoot and tried bouldering several times as well and he believes climbing barefoot can make you a better climber.

Other names such as Bernd Arnold, a German mountaineer, made trad (!) ascents barefoot, Jarno Zwiebel (french) regularly climbs on 7c/8a without shoes, Nico Favresse climbed 8a barefoot, and Sean Villanueva.

These are just a few known climbers in the climbing community who don’t shy away from climbing barefoot on the occasion.

The only time I tried barefoot climbing was a few years ago because another friend suggested it could be fun. It was something like a V6, and I liked it because I thought it required a bit more presence on the rock. But it felt a bit rough on my skin and I could not imagine doing it on smaller footholds. Therefore I never questioned the role of wearing shoes for climbing!

Climbing shoes help you climb better

Do they? Charles Albert managed to unlock the potential of barefoot climbing at the highest known level. In fact, what makes him stand out is that he made it a point to climb solely barefoot. I quote “It reminds you that your body has a limit” – Interesting ethics!

And what is even more interesting is that this guy is a natural! Watching him boulder No kpote only his longstanding V17 project (below), with no climbing shoes, makes you think it’s such a normal thing to do. Not to mention how inspiring that is!

Note: Subsequent ascensionists such as Ryohei Kameyama Nico Pelorson later downgraded No Kpote Only to V16, respectively V15 due to a new beta but it’s important to mention they both wore climbing shoes.

Back to the origins: What happens when you climb barefoot?

There are thousands of nerves in the arch of the foot. Therefore, when you initiate the movement from the arches, anything that puts direct pressure on the arches of the feet will activate proprioceptive sensors. Different studies have shown a higher pre-activation of the plantar flexor muscles when running barefoot. And, if you think about it, this can apply to climbing as well.

For runners, for example, barefoot running is not such a strange thing to do. Some do it for training, others for pleasure. Some climbing coaches I know include easy barefoot running in their training because it improves blood flow, and adds muscular strength to the feet, and strengthens the ankles. If you can run barefoot, why not climb as well?

If I think about it now watching Barefoot Charles crimp with his toes doesn’t seem that strange anymore.

What are the benefits of barefoot climbing?

• It improves blood circulation and balance
• You avoid overly tight climbing shoe issues
• It boosts your energy levels and it’s a free foot massage
• It facilitates a connection with nature by improving sensory awareness
• It strengthens the foot arch, muscles, and toes
• You can crimp with your toes as well
• You can find different beta and use holds you normally don’t when wearing shoes
• There’s a good chance you land better on the mat and decrease the risk of twisted ankles
• It is tougher and more challenging for the body therefore it might burn more calories
• You save money

Think about it: the more you climb, the better the skin of your fingers gets. Therefore, this applies to your feet as well. In fact, watching this video featuring real-life Tarzan where Magnus tries to keep up with tree climbing you can get an idea of how hard skin can get.

What are the risks of barefoot climbing?

• You risk getting nasty cuts on sharp holds
• Your skin wears out faster than rubber
• You don’t have the same grip benefits and leg tension as you do with have with climbing shoes
• You might be limited in which boulders to try
• Depending on how bad a fall to the ground gets your feet risk severe injuries around two main arteries (Posterior and Anterior Tibial artery)

How to be successful at barefoot climbing?

1. Try it outdoors: Gyms usually forbid climbers to climb without shoes for hygiene reasons such as fungal infections
2. Warm-up your feet: Thoroughly warm up your toes and ankles before climbing
3. Start by climbing easy grades: This way you’ll be relaxed enough while doing and you’ll be able to focus on feeling and movement
4. Do it as often as you can but gradually: This will allow your body to get used to it and your skin will have time to thicken
5. Awareness: Stay open to what you discover

A climber’s note: Many climbers have bunions because of climbing shoes and can’t bend their big toe completely. For this issue or if you want to train your toe strength and practice barefoot climbing at your home door wall, here’s a video on designing footholds for barefoot climbing by Mani the Monkey.

Q&A with the barefoot master Charles Albert

Sleep. Eat. Climb. Train. Live in the forest. Repeat.

On a more serious note, I decided to ask Charles Albert himself if he was willing to do a Q&A with us and he was kind enough to reply. After all, he is the master!

Q: Charles, how old are you, and for how long have you been climbing?

A: I am 26 and I’ve been climbing my whole life.

Q: What is climbing to you? Like what is your vision, if you want to say something on ethics related to climbing, etc.

A: At first, climbing was a sport and a game I loved, then it became also a personal quest and now, it is related to work.

Q: Why do you prefer to climb barefoot?

A: I just climb barefoot, I don’t think about preferences.

Q: Do you have a specific training routine? As climbers, we usually train our core, fingers, biceps, and so on. Do you train your feet or toes as well?

A: One routine is to have one try every week or every two weeks where I reach my limits on a climb. Another one is to do some exercises twice a week and climb twice a week on lower intensity and short sessions just to train the body to climb differently. In terms of training, I only climb outdoors and do bodyweight basic exercises and stretching. Sometimes I stretch my toes if that’s what you want to know.

Q: What is the biggest challenge when climbing barefoot versus climbing with shoes?

A: The biggest difference is that I can’t push as hard with no shoes so I must compensate with another placement and pulling harder with my hands.

Q: The title of the article is “Climbing barefoot: How to climb V17 with no shoes”. Can you share a few tips and tricks to climb better while wearing no shoes?

A: If there is one trick it would be to try to feel the rock and the movements better.

Q: What is the biggest challenge for you in climbing?

A: Well, the biggest challenge in climbing will always be soloing, no matter what gear you’re using.

Q: Would you accept a sponsorship from a shoe company?

A: Why not if we find a way to make it work!

So should we all be climbing barefoot?

Food for thought: I believe we get so used to doing things as we’re told to, that we often don’t consider having other options. One thing I love about climbing is that we can all have different styles and approaches to it. Charles is not the only one climbing shoeless but he is the one who has mastered the purest form of climbing: bouldering barefoot.

While at Boulderflash you can find guides on climbing shoes such as how to break climbing shoes in and how tight climbing shoes should be, this guy needs none. Even so, it’s important also to stay open to the fact that even if we were born without shoes this might not suit all of us.

Back to barefoot climbing, have you already tried it? If you find it too hardcore, come check out our shoes from the climbing shop!

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