How to beat forearm pump in climbing

For all of you who recently got infected by bouldering or sport climbing, the infamous forearm pump can feel like a real opponent.

The truth is, the pump in climbing never really goes away. But we’ll share the best ways to deal with it so you can delay it and when it comes, manage it for longer.

What is forearm pump in climbing?

Simply put, forearm pump is that sensation of tightness in your forearms. It’s when the flexors reach their peak of fatigue due to prolonged contraction, and oxygen deprivation, in your muscles.

During gripping, particularly muscles in the forearms experience reduced blood flow and they accumulate metabolic byproducts such as lactic acid.

Therefore, the forearm pump is a natural body response to prolonged muscle contraction and intense gripping while climbing.

Even though being “pumped” is not dangerous for you, this forearm-burning sensation will potentially end your climb prematurely because your fingers will simply open.

When are climbers most likely to experience forearm pump?

You’ll likely experience a lot of that if you are a beginner.

New climbers have no specific muscle developed for the sport, no developed footwork, no knowledge of rest positions, and they tend to hold on too tightly to holds.

The good part is your body and mind are eager to learn.

Top 3 bad habits that lead to forearm pump

Over gripping crimpy or small holds

• This excessive tension in the forearm muscles where climbers hold on too tightly to holds restricts blood flow, and causes fatigue to set in more quickly.
• When climbing on small or crimpy holds, the fingers and forearms work overtime to maintain grip. The intense contraction of these muscles leads to faster fatigue and pump.

Sustained climbing on overhangs or sustained routes

• In both cases, your arms need to work harder to keep you on the wall. Longer sport climbs or extended boulder problems without rest positions increase the chances of forearm pump.

Poor technique

• Too much arm and not enough leg. That means relying too much on your arms instead of your legs or failing to use your body positioning to reduce strain on your forearms, contributes to faster muscle fatigue and is the sure way to get pumped.

5 secrets to beat forearm pump in climbing

1. Keep your calm and breathe

Learning to manage stress and control your breathing can help reduce tension and the tendency to overgrip.

2. Check your footwork

Make sure you’re pushing with your legs rather than pulling with your arms.

A good core always helps to connect the legs to the upper body.

3. Shake your hands while climbing

This is a technique I learned in my first year of climbing and I was reminded of it by stronger climbers.

Every time you reach onto the next hold try discreetly shaking your hand before gripping.

It may not seem much but it helps with delaying your forearm pump and, as a bonus, it helps with the climbing focus.

4. Learn to see rests and learn rest techniques

This one is gold. Learn how to get comfortable with being on the climbing wall and find positions where you can relax parts of your body, forearms included.

Shaking your hands while resting and massaging your forearms (if possible) can also work.

To learn more resting techniques that work make sure you watch this Top 9 tips for how to rest, a video featuring Anna Hazelnutt and Svana Bjarnason that I find extremely helpful.

5. Improve power endurance and strength

Regular forearm-specific exercises such as dead hangs, and fingerboard training increase power endurance and allow your muscles to sustain longer periods of contraction delaying fatigue.

Training a stronger grip also reduces muscle strain during hard moves, and it slows down the buildup of lactic acid.

However, if you are a beginner I would advise you to stick to more climbing and refine all of the above.

Want to improve your climbing technique?

Here’s a good video that focuses just on details like that.

Ways to train your forearms to beat the climbing pump

You are an intermediate climber and you crave stronger forearms? Then you need to progressively build forearm strength, power endurance, and recovery.

Improving your grip, and increasing forearm stamina will optimise your climbing performance.

• Does your climbing gym have a Kilter Board? Try it! It’s a great way to train your forearm strength and power endurance, improve your grip, and become more of a dynamic climber. If it’s your first time trying stick to one session per week to begin with. Start easy and build progressively.
• Spray wall circuits are popular for training power endurance and not only. By repeating circuits on the spray wall you teach your body to get used to staying in discomfort in a controlled environment. I personally prefer doing circuits at the end of your climbing session.
• Regular forearm-specific exercises (e.g., dead hangs, fingerboard training) to improve endurance and increase strength to sustain longer periods of contraction without fatigue. You can use climbing apps such as Crimpd to assist you in your training, track your progress, and have custom workouts.

Train your forearm to beat the pump in 4 weeks

Frequency: 4 days per week

Duration: 1-2 hours per session

Focus Areas: Climbing technique, strength, endurance, flexibility

Rest Days: Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday, essential for recovery

Monday: Forearm strength

• Warm-Up: 10 mins dynamic stretching
• Strength Training (45 mins): Dead Hangs: 4×10-15 sec (add weight if able)
• Fingerboard Repeaters: 6 sets of 7-second hang with 3-second rest. (rest 2-3 mins between sets)
• Wrist Curls: 3×10-15 reps (each side)
• Cool Down: Stretch forearms and wrists

Wednesday: Power endurance

• Warm-Up: 10 mins dynamic stretching
• Power Endurance Training (60 mins): 4x4s: Climb 4 easy problems, rest 4 mins
• Interval Climbing: Climb for 2 minutes, rest for 1 minute (repeat for 20-30 mins)
• Core Work: Plank: 3×30-60 sec

Friday: Forearm strength & skills

• Warm-Up: 10 mins dynamic stretching
• Strength Training (30 mins): Weighted Pull-Ups: 3×5-7 reps,
  Towel Pull-Ups: 3×5-7 reps,
  Farmers Walk: 3 sets of 30-60 seconds
• Skills Training (30 mins): Technique drills on moderate routes focusing on efficient movement

Saturday: Endurance climbing

• Warm-Up: 10 mins dynamic stretching
• Endurance Training (60 mins): Climb continuously on easy routes for 30-45 mins
• Bouldering circuit: 4-5 problems, rest as needed between climbs
• Cool Down: Stretch forearms and wrists 

Focus by week

Week 1: Focus on form and light weights; establish a baseline for strength and endurance.

Week 2: Increase hang time and add weight to strength exercises; extend climbing intervals.

Week 3: Focus on more complex movements and varied grip positions in strength training.

Week 4: Maximise intensity; incorporate longer climbs and shorter rests in endurance training

If you are new to hangboarding/fingerboarding start with the biggest holds.

Our training advice is indicative so adjust it according to your body sensations and experience.

Can you completely beat the forearm pump in climbing?

The hard truth forearm pump never really goes away.

The good news is, the more you climb and train, the more pumped you’ll get so the more your body will get used to the movement and effort.

Just like with most things in life, repetition and resilience are key to success.

Along with tips and tricks for maximising performance.

What is your secret to beating the forearm pump in climbing

Products related to this article