How big is the advantage of climbing from a young age?

When a trustworthy adult introduces a child to new activities, it’s impossible not to notice how easy it is for kids to learn climbing from a young age. Especially compared to an adult.

Perhaps it’s because they are less fearful, perhaps their minds are less cluttered with worries, or maybe their bodies are simply more adaptable. In my opinion, it’s a combination of all three.

If learning a sport early in life gives a head start in developing an intuitive understanding of movement and risk assessment, how big is the advantage of climbing from a young age?

How important is climbing from a young age for performing?

When you get into climbing at an early age, your body structure adapts to the movement, your tendons and ligaments included.

Let’s take people who are left or right-hand dominant as an example. I am sure you noticed your left or right side is stronger and more stable than the other.

If we think about how important a role regular training plays in the body development it’s plain to see why climbing from a young age is crucial for how specific this growth happens.

Why do the most successful high-level competition climbers tend to be between 16 and 30 years old?

Across most competition sports there is a life-span of elite athletes and climbing is no exception. At the Paris Olympics, the youngest climber was 17-year-old Sorato Anraku from Japan, while the oldest was 29-year-old Aleksandra Mirosław.

The explanation? In humans, the endocrine system has a lot to do with performing in sports. To be more exact, testosterone.

This is a hormone you have plenty of in your youth which plays a crucial role in the recovery of muscle tissue, as well as soft tissue, like tendons, ligaments, and cartilage.

Studies from both rodents and humans show that testosterone reduces fear. Therefore, testosterone is also responsible for how “aggressive” an athlete is during a competition. Or to be more specific: how hard you go for the send.

Of course, this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Overall, children who start climbing early benefit from their natural physical adaptability.

The body develops strength, flexibility, and coordination as it develops which is much more effective due to increased plasticity in the musculoskeletal and nervous systems.

However, aging is a natural process that everyone faces. And that’s why we rarely see podiums with climbers over 30.

Around this age, your muscle mass starts declining by 3-8% per decade. Connective tissues lose elasticity, thus increasing the risk of injuries.

Therefore, as you grow older your body needs more maintenance too.

It’s similar to what happens with a car: one day it’s new and running smoothly, requiring just regular oil changes and filter replacements.

Then, seemingly overnight, it starts needing more frequent check-ups from the mechanic.

Gradually, you find yourself replacing parts, the paint loses its shine, and the car just doesn’t feel as powerful anymore.

How important is doing sports from a young age for climbing performance?

Almost as important as climbing from a young age is doing sports regularly as a child.

Gymnastics, swimming, dancing, or other similar sports that build core strength, coordination, bone density, and motor skills not only enhance athletic performance but also aid in having a healthy lifestyle later in life.

It seems that doing other sports regularly relates to climbing performance because it instills essential habits like training and discipline – key elements for performing at a high level.

Key benefits of a multisport background for climbers

In summary, a multisport background is not mandatory to succeed.

But alongside engaging in other sports, it plays a vital role in developing not just physical abilities but also mental fortitude, leading to better performance in the long term.

Mental benefits and transferable skills from early exposure to sports

1. Adaptability

Sports teaches us to adapt to different challenges and environments.

2. Mental toughness

Competing in other sports builds the focus and resilience one needs to excel in climbing competitions or demanding outdoor climbs.

3. Balance and coordination

Sports like gymnastics, dance, and surfing enhance proprioception, which is critical for climbing.

4. Explosiveness and power

Activities like trampoline, soccer, and parkour develop the fast muscle fibers required in dynamic climbing moves.

Examples of pro climbers who tried other sports before they discovered climbing

• Margo Hayes began competing nationally in gymnastics at age 8 and transitioned to climbing at 10. Throughout her career as a climber, she’s known to rely a lot on her amazing flexibility but also on her core strength acquired as a gymnast.
• Adam Ondra, a world champion and Olympian, engaged in gymnastics before climbing but didn’t compete at a high level
• Sasha DiGiulian did ballet and competed in figure skating before focusing on climbing
• Janja Garnbret enjoyed various sports, including track and field, tennis, and dancing, before she committed to climbing
• Lynn Hill started climbing at 14 after being a top gymnast in her state
• Alexey Rubtsov, a living legend competition climber, began climbing at 17 and won a world championship just three years later after training in Kung Fu and track in his teens

What are the main advantages of climbing early in life?

Today, indoor climbing is much more accessible for a variety of reasons.

The increasing number of climbing gyms has created a welcoming entry point for young climbers, creating a safe and controlled environment to train and develop climbing-specific skills.

Enhanced strength-to-weight ratio

Children typically have less body mass and a higher ratio of strength to weight, which makes climbing movements easier and less taxing on their bodies.

Joint flexibility

Younger climbers are naturally more flexible, allowing them to perform dynamic moves and contort into challenging positions on climbing routes.

Neuromuscular coordination

Early exposure to rock climbing fosters better coordination and muscle memory, which are essential for executing complex climbing techniques.

Mental and cognitive benefits

Climbing is not just a physical sport; it requires problem-solving, spatial awareness, and mental resilience.

Young climbers develop these cognitive abilities early, which often translates into better decision-making and strategy on climbing routes.

Better risk-taking approach to the sport

Indoor climbing walls, with their varied holds and route designs, offer children a constant puzzle to solve.

This encourages creative thinking and adaptability – skills that can give them a competitive edge in climbing competitions.

Young climbers who regularly compete gain experience that is invaluable for their long-term climbing performance.

They learn to handle setbacks gracefully and stay focused under pressure, both of which are essential qualities for elite climbers.

How competing from a young age builds mental toughness

Starting young also allows climbers to build confidence and overcome fears in a supportive environment.

Mastering challenging climbs boosts self-esteem, while learning to manage failure fosters resilience.

These attributes not only enhance climbing performance but also provide structured opportunities and prepare young climbers for receiving feedback and other life challenges.

How much stronger would you be if you started climbing when you were young?

That’s a tough one but the reality is that you would probably be a lot stronger! If you did everything buy the book.

The chart in this video is interesting in this aspect.

However, personally, I am an advocate of not focusing on things that cannot be changed.

So I would rather talk about what you can actually do to become the best version of yourself.

Such as training for example:

Conclusion

So what if you discovered climbing later in life? Just as Lyn Hill says after climbing El Capitan: “It goes boys!”.

Fortunately, there’s no age limit to this amazing sport and we don’t have to all be professional climbers to inspire or to be inspired – just like Steph Davis states in her article.

While competing in the Climbing World Cups and being an Olympian probably requires an early start, it’s important to not limit yourself and understand that performance in climbing success isn’t solely determined by age.

Climbers who begin later in life can still achieve extraordinary accomplishments.

Examples of climbers like Lynn Hill, who began climbing at 14, and Alexey Rubtsov, who started at 17 and went on to win a World Championship just a few years later, or Jonathan Siegrist who started at 19 and recently crushed Biographie in Ceuse.

So, dream big!

After all, for an average real-life climber, performance is also driven by a sense of exploration.

When it comes to bringing a love for the sport into the community there’s no age advantage – it comes down to how much you want to prioritise it.

At what age did you start climbing and what drives you?

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