I never really paid that much attention to my skin as a climber until I almost destroyed it by over-using hand disinfectant during the pandemic. My skin became very dry and had nasty cracks that would simply not heal and, worse, often stopped me from climbing – combined with chalk and the cold temperatures my skin’s state only got worse!
I hoped it would go away with time but after a few months there was no change and it was only when I arrived in Oliana (Spain) I got in touch with a climber hands “expert” (a climber with more experience than me) who shared some tips on how to show some love to my skin and be able to climb more days in a row having better skin.
So here it is, my top tips for perfectly hydrated, soft to the touch, and ready-to-climb skin.
Moisturising before
Use a wax-free moisturiser at least 2 hours before climbing, as it makes your skin more elastic skin, more stretchy and so less prone to cracks.
The right chalk
- The difference is real and noticeable on the skin. If you have sensitive skin pure chalk (100% Magnesium Carbonate) with no drying agents in it might do the trick for you because it gives your skin the dryness it needs while climbing but it also protects it from over-drying. Plus some people say they tend to use way less!
- Wash your skin with water and soap
- Besides the bacteria, clean skin allows you to see better what you need to take care of
File your skin after climbing or training
Newcomer, intermediate, full-time climber – I can’t emphasise enough how important this is and how much it helps your skin to regenerate overnight. I find that filing my skin after every climbing session (even when I am supposed to climb the next day) and applying moisturiser takes away my skin sensitivity and helps me climb for days in a row with better skin.
Why? It removes the dead skin and allows for new one to grow faster – even more so for gym sessions.
Moisturising after
Prevent dryness, flappers, cracks, splits, and signs of aging by applying moisturiser before going to sleep.
I use Crimp Oil – a dry oil for climbers that helps regenerate minor cuts and chapped hands and I find Kletter Retter Repair Balm (wax) and Climbskin (wax-free) work the best for me.
Note: Taping is indeed a good way to keep climbing when climbing hurts, you need to protect your skin, climb with an injury, or prevent an injury. Check out our detailed article on how often to use tape.
Follow these tips to keep your skin in good shape and also prevent skin injuries. Even so, depending on how often you climb you might still get a skin injury. Here are a few tips for when that happens.
Flappers. What are they and how to treat them?
Mostly common to indoor climbers, these are pieces of skin hanging by only one edge due to artificial holds with a very tough texture. They hurt – razor style and they could make even your worst enemy cry.
How to treat them:
- Wash your hands with water and soap and make sure your neighbors are not at home as you might spontaneously start screaming
- Clean cut the dead skin ideally using clippers close to flap and make sure you don’t tear your good skin, apply antiseptic, and let it breathe for a while
Note on climbers and priorities:
Now…if you are on a rock-climbing trip or your climbing days are limited for some reason and you’d rather climb every day you could try the Superglue method. It’s not exactly what we have in mind for healing but it’s definitely worth trying when resting is not an option!
Splits: pull the split apart squeeze a bit of glue in and around the break, and then push the skin together until it dries out. Be careful to use a non-carcinogenic product.
Flappers: others basically use superglue directly on the skin to keep their tape from peeling off but getting the tape off after might be a bit difficult…
Disclaimer: Superglue can contain toxins and therefore using to repair skin does come with risks so please do you own research and consider all risks if you are considering this method
I find this video quite useful on this subject:
Taping and recovery
- If climbing use tape at your next climbing session but be careful not to apply it directly on the freshly injured skin
- Use a folded piece of tape instead and put it in between cut/new skin and tape. Repeat until it heals completely and don’t tape during the night.
- If you can take a break from climbing, then not taping and allowing the skin to breathe does help with a faster recovery
- When not climbing use repair balms such as Rhino, ClimbOn, KletterRetter, Climbskin or other brands that work for you
Note: If you want to keep on climbing, simply wash your hands with water and soap, apply antiseptic, press the dead skin back into place, and tape. Keep in mind that healing will take longer and climbing will be nasty.
The videos below gives a good explanataion on how to tape a flapper:
Talking fingers or nasty splits?
I believe these are the most annoying to me as they take so much time to heal due to where they are usually situated.
- Clean the skin as best as you can – with soap and water
- Use a nail clipper to cut off the dead skin around your split
- Moisturise the skin
- Tape the finger straight to prevent the split from opening right away the next day you go climbing, as this way the skin can start its healing process while it’s lengthened
- Use a healing skin balm and apply it directly to the wound
- Tape your split when climbing and change the bandaid when needed
I find this video helpful on dealing with splits:
Note: If you know you are going to climb on a route with sharp holds try to tape your finger as to prevent the split. And please try changing the climbing style, skip the move, change the training, etc.
Wrapping up
Follow these tips on climbers hands and not only will your skin be more resilient but it will also be perfect for climbing and soft to the touch (as much as a climber’s skin can be). Because in the end, flappers or no flappers, splits or not splits any climber will want to keep their skin hydrated to be able to climb and perform more.
If you have any tips of your own then please share in comments. Sharing is caring!
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