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Climbing footwork: The magic of heel hooks in bouldering

From the exterior, heel hooks might seem like simple climbing footwork. But any beginner who tried heel hooking for the first time, especially in steep terrain, knows it’s not as easy as pro climbers make this technique look.

This climbing guide aims to point out the magic of heel hooks in bouldering and explore their benefits. Because, let’s face it, how many of us train these essential climbing footwork skills on a daily basis?

Moreover, here you’ll find tips on how to effectively incorporate training methods into your climbing routine.

What is a heel hook in bouldering?

Heel hooking is an essential technique where the climber literally hooks their heel onto a hold.

Some climbers describe this as growing another arm – and you’ll do too as soon as you discover how to use its magic well.

Why is heel hooking important in climbing?

Heel hooks are indeed one of the most powerful and essential techniques in climbing, particularly for sending high-difficulty boulder problems.

Proof stands in some of the world’s most famous 9a boulder problems where heel hooking is crucial:

  • Soudain Seul – Font 9A, FA by Simon Lorenzi
  • Alphane – Font 9A, FA by Shawn Raboutou
  • Megatron – Font 9A, FA by Daniel Woods

But is heel hooking a skill reserved only for the strong? Not at all.

Even though it is particularly useful for climbing steep boulders, not all steep boulders that require this type of climbing footwork are hard!

Moreover, heel hooking is a great skill to use for traverses, reachy holds, rests, and regaining balance.

What else? Let’s find out!

Heel hook to save energy and rest

By securing your heel, the effort is transferred to your legs – where the bigger muscles are.

Thanks to that you can release tension in your arms and reduce the fatigue that is so specific to more difficult climbs. Or climbing beginners.

Heel hooking is important also because it increases climbing endurance.

Knowing how to efficiently use your energy allows you to stay on the wall longer and climb more challenging routes.

Heel hook as a way to improve climbing balance

A secure heel hook reduces swing on dynamic moves such as big reaches or dynos and can act as an anchor.

This reduces the risk of falling, making your climbing more controlled and efficient.

On climbs where handholds are scarce, heel hooks add stability and keep your body close to the wall, allowing you to move more confidently without having the feeling that you’re off-balance.

Climbing footwork: The magic of heel hooks in bouldering

Heel hook as a way to increase your climbing reach

Did you ever experience the “getting smaller while climbing” feeling? When you heel hook you release some of the tension in your arms, therefore you recover a bit from the arms pump.

As a result, it makes it easier to reach for higher or distant holds.

Moreover, heel hooking can help you skip over-stretching climbing moves and reach higher holds that normally are out of range if you were to use your arms.

Heel hooks as a way to climb overhangs

You might have seen Janja Garnbret, Toby Roberts, and the rest of the Olympic squad of pro athletes (and beyond) train in overhangs without their legs.

But don’t be fooled! When competing indoors or while climbing on their outdoor projects, even the best climbers use heel hooks if possible.

Because the truth is, there is no sustainable way to climb an overhang or roof without your legs.

Even Adam Ondra would get tired fast without using his heels to perform complex moves! 😂

Heel hooks as a magic crux-solving solution

This is a “heel hook way or the highway” situation. For instance, often in bouldering, problems can be climbed only by using heel hooks.

Therefore mastering this advanced climbing technique can definitely reduce the overall effort.

Moreover, it unlocks new crux possibilities and broadens the types of problems and routes one can climb.

Why is it important to train for heel hooking?

Heel hooking seems deceptively effortless, doesn’t it? The truth is the harder a route is, the harder the heel hook. The good news is once you train for it, it will feel easy. And injury-free.

Specific muscle strengthening for successful heel hooks

Heel hooking relies heavily on mobility, hamstrings, glutes, calf strength, as well as a strong core. Training these muscle groups will make your heel hooks more powerful, controlled, and pain-free.

Here’s a detailed example of home heel hook training that includes single-leg deadlifts, glute bridges, calf workouts, and short hip mobility exercises:

YouTube video

The video below shows some isolation moves that improve your climbing technique so you can actively heel hook on the wall. Extra bonus, they prevent injuries!

YouTube video

Core strength and improved body tension for stable heel hooks

A strong core will surely improve your climbing. But it will also help with other aspects as you age such as maintaining a good body posture and preventing lower back pain and muscle injuries.

A stable core in climbing is essential because it helps you make controlled movements and maintain body tension as you heel hook in overhangs.

Here are 4 best core exercises for climbing with Anna Davey.

YouTube video

Hollow Hold

Duration: 20-30 seconds
Reps: 3 sets
Rest: 30 seconds between sets

Plank & Row

Duration: 30 seconds (15 seconds each side)
Reps: 3 sets
Rest: 30 seconds between sets

Copenhagen Plank

Duration: 20-30 seconds each side
Reps: 2 sets
Rest: 30 seconds between sets

Star Plank

Duration: 20 seconds on each side
Reps: 2 sets
Rest: 30 seconds between sets

Notes:

  • Always start with a light warm-up ( cardio and light active stretches)
  • Do this training 2-3 times per week to avoid overtraining
  • Cool down by doing stretches and always remember to adjust according to your body signals

Want to add a bit of variation to your set of exercises? Check this one out: a 6-minute workout video with Tom Randall:

YouTube video

Hip and hamstring flexibility for better heel hooking

Heel hooks are demanding on your hips and hamstrings. Improving your overall flexibility will make it easier to place and effectively use a heel hook in tricky positions.

Here are 3 key stretches:

  1. Hamstring and glute stretch are crucial for pulling up high with your heel and for overhang mobility
  2. Hip Flexor stretch increases mobility in your hips, so you can safely and effectively place your heel higher
  3. Yoga Pigeon Pose opens up the hips and improves flexibility. However, do it controlled, don’t rush, and listen to your body

For a more visual example, here are 20 minutes of deep stretching for hip flexors, quads, and hamstrings.

YouTube video

Experience the magic of heel hooks through practice

If you want to make your heel hooks actually work, you need to practice the technique on different holds and wall angles. And you guessed it: the climbing gym is the best place to do that!

  1. Start by using basic heel hooks on boulder problems you find on a low-angle wall or slab and slowly progress to steeper terrain. This will allow you to focus on feeling how much power you can generate from your leg rather than your arms.
  2. Always make sure you place the outside edge of the heel on the hold, not the arch or toes. Engage your hamstring and glutes by pulling your body toward the heel. As you pull, push against the wall for more stability. Focus on keeping your body tight and using your hamstrings and core for control.
  3. Don’t limit yourself to heel hooking only at the gym. Be creative and test your heel hooks as often as you get a possibility in the outdoors.

Here’s a good video from Movement for Climber that explains how to make your heel hooks work and all the subtleties you should pay attention to:

YouTube video

4 top risk factors for heel hook climbing injuries and how to avoid them

Climbing footwork: The magic of heel hooks in bouldering

1. Lack of muscle structure

Climbing is an ongoing process for everybody, regardless of the level.

However, for beginners, apart from a lack of climbing experience, placing heel hooks without having the physical means to properly engage their core and hips may increase the risk of injury.

The solution to that is to strengthen the supporting muscles such as the hamstrings, glutes, and core. This will give your body the support it needs to help your body handle the forces exerted during a heel hook.

2. Skipping the warm-up

Even experienced climbers can get injured from repeatedly using heel hooks without specifically warming them up beforehand.

The solution to that is, you guessed it – warm up. Having strong muscles that sustain heel hooks is not enough. Beginning of last summer I made the crucial mistake of not warming up my legs before heel hooking on a boulder problem.

The next thing that followed was a strong popping sound – when my partner lowered me to the ground I couldn’t stand on my left leg as it felt numb.

What did I learn? Apart from not climbing hard when I feel tired ever again, a thorough heel and hamstring warm-up is essential to a successful climbing session.

3. Poor flexibility

Limited flexibility makes heel hooking harder and more dangerous because it puts more strain on the knee and other joints. Trying to force a heel hook because your hips don’t have enough opening can result in nasty climbing injuries such as hamstring tears.

The solution to that is to work on your climbing flexibility for hips, hamstrings, and ankles. First of all, it makes heel hooking possible. And second, it helps reduce strain on the knees and makes it more comfortable and effective.

If you want to read more on the subject, we wrote an interesting guide for you on climbing flexibility, why it matters, and how to improve it.

4. No experience = poor technique

Poor technique, such as twisting the knee or not keeping the core engaged, can increase the likelihood of injury.

The solution to that is to practice to improve your heel hook technique. The leg muscles are much stronger than your arm muscles. Now imagine how learning how to properly heel hook engages those muscles so you have better control over your movements.

For more tips on training and climbing harder with heel hooks, make sure to watch the Lattice Fundamentals Series.

YouTube video

In summary, heel hooks are a powerful and creative way to level up your climbing performance and sometimes save you for tricky energy energy-consuming situations.

Just make sure to stay mindful about training and your warm-up as well.

Are you eager to unlock new possibilities on the climbing wall and experiment with the magic of heel hooks?

Drop us a comment to let us know how it went.

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