Depending on the country you live in, supplements are more or less famous. Based on the group you hang out with – this might substantially change as well. In a world where science keeps developing based on old and new studies, it is hard to decide which one is best for you. From electrolytes to BCAA, collagen, and Whey Protein, almost everyone I know who is practicing a sport takes supplements. Me included.
I am going to start with maybe the most controversial supplement in the world. Not only for rock climbers and boulderers but also for sports performers in general and less active people, collagen is a worldwide spread supplement.
First, what is collagen?
The most abundant protein in your body – collagen, accounts for about 30% of your body’s total protein.
Collagen serves as the main building block of your body’s skin, muscles, bones, tendons, ligaments, and other connective tissues. You can also find it in organs, blood vessels, and the intestinal lining.
Just collagen on its own doesn’t support muscle repair and growth the way protein does.
Given a healthy lifestyle (not too much sugar or refined carbohydrates and smoking), and a diet especially based on vitamin C, zinc, copper, and manganese your body can easily make collagen naturally.
A well-balanced diet includes chicken, beef, fish, dairy, eggs, beans, leafy greens, other vegetables, whole grains, and fruits.
Natural sources of collagen
Collagen-rich foods can be a valuable addition to your diet. Some top sources include beef bone broth and bovine (cattle) products, which are renowned for their high collagen content. Skin-on chicken and pork bone broth also offer a collagen boost, as do sardines and organ meats. For plant-based options, berries, leafy greens, garlic, cashews, broccoli, nuts, avocados, kale, lentils, and green tea provide nutrients that support collagen synthesis in the body.
Not only controversial as a supplement, but collagen is also a bit mysterious because it can’t be measured through blood tests.
As we age, our bodies produce less collagen and the existing components break down faster. This can result in wrinkles, hollowed eyes, and hair thinning, which are noticeable to the eye.
However, it can and will eventually lead to stiffness, worn cartilage, and blood coagulation, which may not be as easily detected.
Low levels of collagen in the body can also lead to digestive problems and food sensitivities.
Types of collagen
There are five types of collagen in the human body, each with a specific function:
- Type I is the most abundant type, making up 90% of the body’s collagen. It is tightly packed and provides structure to the skin, bones, tendons, and ligaments
- Type II is found in elastic cartilage, which supports the joints
- Type III is found in muscles, arteries, and organs
- Type IV is present in the skin layers
- Type V is found in the cornea of the eyes, hair, some layers of skin, and the placenta’s tissue
An alpinist, climber, and teacher of climbing performance, Eric Horst is known for his best-selling book Training For Climbing and as the author of numerous magazine articles and many publications specific to climbing.
According to his article Tendon/ligament plasticity, tendon structure, muscle matrix, tendon adaptations (and Hypertrophy!) and Outside Online, Eric claims that the consumption of Vitamin C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen enhanced with l-tryptophan, along with targeted training is highly beneficial because:
- It increases exercise-induced collagen synthesis in connective tissues (such as finger flexor tendons, A2 pulleys, etc)
- It accelerates recovery from strenuous plyometric (power) training
- It reduces joint pain both during exercise and rest
- It improves clinical outcomes from injuries when combined with heavy isometric or eccentric training
If you wanna read more about the matter, Horst has two more interesting articles on this subject here and on Training for Climbing.
The controversy:
A new study conducted by the Department of Human Biology, School of Nutrition and Translational Research in Metabolism, Maastricht University Medical Centre+, THE NETHERLANDS claims that whey protein is a much more efficient supplement than collagen during the recovery period after exercise, because it can increase the rate of muscle growth and recovery.
Note. Both the quality and amount of protein ingested are highly important for this to occur. The study suggests consuming 20 grams of high-quality protein, such as egg or whey protein, to maximise muscle conditioning and optimise the benefits of exercise training.
So that’s good news especially for whoever wants to grow muscle. But for those who want to support their connective tissues, such as bone and cartilage, consuming collagen might still be a safe choice since the study could not argue against it.
The study involved 45 trained athletes both men and women and measured post-exercise muscle fiber and connective tissue synthesis rates after consuming either 30 grams of whey protein, 30 grams of collagen peptides, or a zero-calorie placebo.
Although not a long-duration or climbing-specific study, it is currently the only one that can effectively compares protein ingestion to collagen during exercise recovery, and determines that protein ingestion can increase myofibrillar protein synthesis rates while collagen does not.
Additionally, this study shows that dairy proteins are an excellent source of leucine while collagen protein is a superior source of glycine and proline.
Despite being nonessential amino acids, glycine and proline play a significant role in connective tissue remodeling and plasticity. In fact, they make up approximately 37% of all amino acids in this protein fraction.
Collagen, protein and climbing
Connective tissue runs on blood and it serves as a binding structure and support for organs and the human body as a whole. In climbing, the connective tissues such as the fingers, arms, shoulders, torso, and knees are not only crucial but also highly stressed.
Glycine, a key collagen amino that our bodies can normally make enough for us to function properly, may become conditionally essential during exercising.
Considering we tend to overuse our bodies while climbing, my non-scientist take on this is that supplementing could be a good idea because it helps in faster recovery and it promotes a healthy lifestyle – and also as long as studies or conditions don’t advise against it.
I will be 34 in May this year. I discovered collagen soon after my SLAP Tear injury so 2 years ago. Between physio sessions, strengthening exercises, and recovery exercises I was – as one would expect – looking for ways to get back faster in the game.
I have a healthy lifestyle which means I exercise and stretch (active stretch included) daily, I sleep well, and I generally have a well-balanced diet.
In the past years, I mostly used NeoCell, Super Collagen, + Vitamin C & Biotin, and Solumeve as a collagen supplement because they are based on a mix of Protein + Hydrolyzed Collagen Peptides and other beneficial ingredients. I take a month’s break once every 3 – 4 months.
My personal experience
What I can say from my personal experience is that while taking collagen (along with a healthy lifestyle) I did notice some improvements such as:
- I noticed an improvement in my Slap Partial Tear recovery only a few weeks after I started taking collagen supplements
- My hair feels stronger and my skin looks like it has more elasticity
- I experience less hair-fall
- I feel less stiff after an intense training or climbing session (I also stretch after)
- I experience less muscular fatigue after an intense training or climbing session (I try to eat a protein-based meal after)
- I overall feel like my body is more elastic and more solid at the same time
It is already hard for scientists to say whether collagen supplements influence your body or not, but there is no doubt that protein and collagen are essential to our body’s proper functioning. Despite the controversy, there is no study showing dangers from it either.
Based on what I’ve experienced and also my shared experience with others I would advise a healthy lifestyle – and, on a “better be safe than sorry” note taking Hydrolyzed Collagen supplements combined with protein and vitamin C.
Otherwise, why would it be that spread among athletes from all sports?
BCAA – a crucial component of collagen, is widely spread among athletes as well. However, if you’re going to supplement, a good source of collagen only as well as a well-balanced diet would make the use of BCAA pointless.
Whey/plant protein
Protein is a nutrient your body needs to grow and repair cells such as muscle and bones, as well as enzymes and hormones.
So basically we need protein to function properly. While in regards to life, protein plays an undeniable role in our health it is needless to say why is this important in climbing.
Furthermore, concerning bouldering/climbing, it can be used as a weapon/supplement for training and performance.
Sources of Protein
- Lean meats
- Seafood
- Vegetables
- Cottage cheese
- Nuts
- Whole grains
- Greek yogurt
- Eggs
- Soy products (like tofu or tempeh)
- Chia pudding
- Nut butters
- Chickpeas
- Pumpkin seeds
Types of protein
- Whey protein is a type of milk protein with bioactive proteins that offer additional health benefits and is rapidly absorbed by the body, making it an excellent choice for consumption before or after a workout.
- Casein protein is another type of milk protein that is digested much slower than whey protein. It is ideal for consumption during periods of fasting, such as sleep. Casein protein supplements are also a good source of calcium.
- Egg protein powders are made from pure egg white protein. They are relatively expensive and digest at a moderate pace.
- Soy protein is an excellent plant-based protein source that contains all of the essential amino acids necessary for optimal health. It is an excellent option for vegetarians looking to meet their daily protein requirements.
- Rice and pea protein supplements are low allergenic and are appealing to individuals with egg, dairy, or soy allergies.
- Combining rice and pea proteins makes them a complete protein source, despite the fact that they do not contain all of the essential amino acids on their own.
Why protein is essential for climbers
As for climbing, the moment we take protein is essential for building, and maintaining muscle as well as recovering after training. While for most people consuming enough protein throughout the day is enough, for climbers – especially athletes, the moment this is consumed becomes important as well.
For example, when it comes to endurance exercise, consuming protein can help in delaying central fatigue, reducing muscle protein breakdown, and maintaining a positive nitrogen balance in the body.
Additionally, consuming protein before (between 60 and 120 minutes), during, or after intense or prolonged endurance activity may lower the risk of upper respiratory tract infections and improve the overall function of the immune system. All of which can have a positive impact on future training sessions.
Studies have shown that combining resistance training with a diet consisting of 4-6 meals per day, containing 20-40 g of protein per meal, can lead to positive changes in body composition and physical performance.
It is suggested that the timing of protein intake could also influence the results of resistance training. Therefore, it is important to look beyond the few hours following training to determine the impact protein may have on performance and recovery. Evidence in support of this concept comes from studies on nighttime protein ingestion.
Apparently consuming 30 g of casein, 30 g of whey, or 33 g of carbohydrate 30 minutes before sleep resulted in increased resting energy expenditure and improved VO2 the following morning.
If you want to read the complete study you can find it here.
Tip: you can make sure you raise your protein levels by adding a healthy protein source to each meal as well as snacking on protein snacks.
Creatine
Creatine is one of the most popular and well-studied supplements used by professional athletes and fitness enthusiasts. Not only fuel to your muscles it can also be beneficial for brain health.
Your liver, kidneys, and pancreas naturally produce creatine, a source of energy that supports you throughout your workout and intellectual activities. You can also find it in foods such as red meat, seafood, and dairy.
If you follow a vegetarian or vegan diet, you may benefit more from creatine supplements as you don’t consume animal-based sources of creatine. However, it may take more time to build up creatine levels in your muscles.
Creatine supplements are a popular choice among individuals who want to enhance their strength, performance, and cognitive abilities. While creatine has been extensively researched and is generally safe for most people, it may cause some side effects.
To ensure that creatine suits your body and that you are in good health, consult a healthcare professional before taking it.
Electrolytes
Electrolytes play a vital role in many key functions of the human body and consist of a group of essential minerals, such as sodium, calcium, and potassium, that exhibit a natural positive or negative electrical charge when they dissolve in water and maintain the balance between fluids inside and outside of cells.
Your body obtains electrolytes or their components from food and drink.
Your kidneys filter out excess electrolytes from the body and expel them in your urine and it loses electrolytes through sweating.
Since an adult’s body is approximately 60% water, nearly every fluid and cell in the body contains electrolytes.
Sodium, Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium, Chloride, Phosphate, and Bicarbonate are key elements your body needs to maintain normal functioning levels.
If and when those levels are marked as positive (+) too much or negative (-) too little, means your body experiences an unbalance that can be greatly dangerous to your health and sports performance as it can lead to injuries.
Electrolytes and bouldering/climbing
Staying hydrated – there is more to it than simply drinking loads of water.
Fruits and vegetables typically contain electrolytes, which you quickly lose through sweat during exercise, so it’s important to drink water and eat well.
Symptoms of an electrolyte imbalance
- Irregular heartbeat
- Weakness
- Muscle twitching and spasms
- Changes in blood pressure
- Excessive tiredness
- Numbness
- Confusion
- Bone disorders
- Nervous system disorders
- Seizures
- Convulsions
During summer, I prefer supplementing to stay hydrated since heat increases dehydration risk during climbing or sports.
Physivantage offers some options of electrolytes among other beneficial supplements for climbing but I would say it is quite easy to find them in other brands as well.
Here’s a list of supplements to consider. What is your take on supplements as an improvement for bouldering/climbing and which ones do you think are the best supplements for climbers?
Disclaimer: This article is based on personal experience and general research; always consult a healthcare professional before beginning any supplement regimen.
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