Buying guide: How to choose the right climbing shoe

How to choose the right climbing shoes? For starters, when it comes to it there is no right or wrong. Yet, there are a few things you should know before spending your money on a pair.

Here’s your ultimate buying guide according to us and not necessarily what is best on the market.

The ultimate myth when picking climbing shoes

It’s a fact some of us still cling to outdated beliefs, especially when it comes to climbing gear: while some climbers embrace modern and tech-savvy equipment, others still rely on ideas from 20 years ago.

The truth is that nowadays we have a wide range of everything to improve our climbing experience.

Therefore let’s explore together what ideas need to be reconsidered.

Climbing shoes need to feel tight and painful

I have to be honest with you: I am surprised that beginners STILL get this advice when they go to certain climbing shops.

Models, shapes, fabrics, and know-how have evolved so much this is absolutely not necessary if you want to be precise when climbing.

Here are 3 reasons why you should NOT buy very tight bouldering shoes:

• Dangerous for your health in the long term
• The discomfort can ruin your climbing session
• Bigger risk of injury when falling

Let’s get one thing straight

Pain should not shadow your joy for climbing, even if you’re new to it. While occasional discomfort is normal and to be expected, prioritising well-being, precision, and confidence over pain are essential.

Do you want to know more about this topic? Read our guide on How to fit your climbing shoes and how tight they should be.

How to pick the right climbing shoes for you

Modern climbing shoes should feel snug, and a bit uncomfortable and they should support your progress in climbing.

If wearing them gets in the way of you focusing on the actual climbing then they’re not the right shoes for you.

I once had a hole in my toe for 6 months due to a poorly stitched seam on the inside of my very tight shoes. Don’t be like me.

What should a beginner look for?

Comfort. A stiffer shoe with a neutral shape will probably be best for gripping and edging as well as for supporting your legs.

Generally, climbing shoes for beginners are more flat to allow the climber to focus solely on movement. No pressure on the foot means more comfort and joy.

An example of a neutral beginner shoe can be the Tarantula from La Sportiva, Tanta from Tenaya, Striker from Ocun, or Origin from Scarpa.

For the full ABC on the best bouldering shoes for beginners, check out our guide.

Climbing at an intermediate level?

Now that you know a few things about climbing you probably also started climbing on smaller holds, slightly overhang boulders, and generally on terrain that requires traction and precision.

Additionally, your muscles are more developed and therefore up to for the job. In this case, softer shoes can be a great choice for those climbers who are looking for more sensation and better smearing.

An example of shoes for intermediate climbers can be the Unparallel Up Mocc or the V6.

Truth be told, UpMocc is actually a quite versatile shoe, quite comfy therefore I declare it a good overall choice at all levels.

What about more advanced climbers?

When tackling steep terrain, downturned and aggressive shoes are best. You probably noticed the harder a climb gets the smaller the holds get, especially footholds.

In that case, this specific shape with a more narrow and softer tip will help you to perform better.

The bigger the overhang, the greater the downturn of the shoe should be because you want effective toe and heel hooking. But you probably already know that.

An example of an aggressive downturned shoe can be the Flagship PRO, Qubit LV, or the Shaman Pro. Or, La Sportiva Comp.

How important is the gender of the shoe in climbing?

Gender too can be a thing to consider if you fit in the “norms”. However, most people I know don’t conform to these norms 😂, so you shouldn’t rely solely on that and get your horizons broader instead.

Typically, LV (low volume) or women’s shoe versions are narrower than men’s, but the width of one’s feet is not necessarily linked to their gender.

If you are interested in reading a more detailed full review on Unparallel shoes, have a look and read our guide on Boulderflash.

And if you want to dig even more into it, here’s another guide on climbing shoes and how to choose them.

The more you know, the less you know

With Google at only a few clicks away, don’t you feel like sometimes there is too much confusing information along with shoulds and shouldn’t?

Let’s keep it simple instead and go back to basics when it comes to choosing the right climbing shoes for you.

What type of climbing are you aiming for?

Indoors or outdoors, bouldering, sport climbing, or traditional climbing? Regardless of your climbing level, it’s important to consider where you’ll be using your shoes predominantly. This should help you decide which ones to buy.

For example, if you are mostly climbing indoors or on sandstone, the Leopard II could be the shoe for you!

The challenge of discomfort or comfort?

This question is for you to answer. The perfect pair of shoes should feel snug, and balanced between comfort and a bit of discomfort. Period.

Forget about breaking your toes and doing breathing exercises when you first try out a new pair of climbing shoes!

Climbing is your time to shine so do it pain-free.

Test out your climbing shoes before hitting the climbing wall!

• Look for a snug fit that doesn’t leave space in your shoes and a toe box that feels good, doesn’t numb your toes, and fits your foot shape well. The same goes for the heel.
• Depending on the fabric, model, and weight they will stretch out a bit, like half a size. Therefore consider talking about this with the seller and do some research on your own..
• Do you have painful pressure points? Then they’re not your shoes, Cinderella! Generally, pain tends to worsen with long-wearing hours or when it’s warm so it’s on you taking the risk!

Ready for a leap of faith and buy shoes online?

• Make sure the online shop has a friendly returns policy (like Boulderflash!🙂 check out our returns policy here 
• Look for a reliable size chart and pay attention to the width of the shoe as some are larger than others
• Check the description and reviews so you can make informed decisions

Is there any difference between the fabrics in the upper part?

Bear in mind the main materials used are synthetic and leather and it is said they stretch differently.

Nevertheless, based on my experience, the extent of stretch is more dependent on the climber’s weight, shoe’s shape, size, and sole rather than the fabric itself.

For instance, a tighter shoe will likely stretch more (and cause discomfort) whereas a well-fitted one will not stretch much because there is no pressure on the inside.

How important is the rubber sole?

As a climber, you’ll want a grippy rubber that allows you to stick to volumes and small smeary holds.

On one hand, soft and thin rubber gives more sensation and usually sticks better but it also gives less support and is less durable.

On the other hand, thicker rubber lasts longer and gives more support to the foot but it also feels more rigid.

Can a beginner wear performance-oriented climbing shoes?

If it feels comfortable and you are willing to pay the price (as more expensive) I don’t see anything wrong about it.

However, keep in mind that generally, paying more for extra features will not necessarily come with the benefits you’re paying for since you are still at a learning stage.

And, to make it easy for you if you are a beginner, all you should be aiming for is comfort because any style of climbing you will try will not be shoe-dependent.

That’s why, for example, indoor gyms have rental shoes that work very well with beginners and casual climbers.

To conclude, choosing the right shoes can bring a much better experience thanks to the confidence it brings into your climbing.

And writing this, I also have Jonathan Siegrist in mind, who once drove 40 minutes back home just to get his good climbing shoes to make a final attempt on his project! 😂

Listen all about it here.

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