Having many options is good but it can also feel overwhelming at times. When you are a beginner at the sport or/and you’re on a budget, choosing your bouldering crash pad is no exception to that – especially with so many options out there.
Now that you know what bouldering is and you know how to choose your climbing shoes, we want to talk about safety and how you can get the most out of the sport. Find THAT one mat that will protect you when highballing, overhang, roof, steep or slab climbing.
Since there are so many articles suggesting which products you should buy we thought about a different approach. One that gives you the right information in order for you to be able to:
- Know even more about bouldering
- Make an informed decision and decide what’s best for yoy
Do you feel ready to go big and buy your first bouldering pad so you can play outdoors? Here is what you need to know!
What is a bouldering pad and why do you need one?
Simple as daylight: a crash pad is basically a bed-like mattress, only smaller and portable as it’s made for the outdoors.
However each model – depending on the brand and use – consists of one or more layers of thick foam that, depending upon the height of the fall, absorbs impact.
Bouldering pad sizes and types
Bouldering pads come down to two main pad sizes and four designs: Taco, Hinge, Hybrid and Baffled.
Medium pads are about 3 x 4 feet, and large pads are about 4 x 5 feet or 4 x 6 feet. You also have the very small ones – suitcase style but those are more for troubleshooting and we don’t advise you to rely on those!
Size choosing generally depends of 4 main factors:
- First and most important: safety!
- The budget you have
- How often you go out bouldering
- How much space you have in your car
So here is is a summary on the 4 main types of bouldering pad:
The classic taco
Seen less and less on the market, I would call this a general pad. Easy to carry and simply built this is a non hinged folding pad that sits well on uneven terrain. However, in time, when stored folded the foam will break easier so this means it will become more difficult to lay it flat.
The hinge
It is perfect for flat surfaces and is easy to lay on the ground or store. However, when confronted with uneven surfaces they may be not the very best as they might hide sharp rocks that can poke through the folding point.
Make sure you either use it on flat terrain or you look for an angled hinge crash pad that uses Velcro to securely stick the two parts such as Mad Rock from Metolius or Session II.
The hybrid hinge
Exclusive to the Organic pads, this one is a combo between the Taco and the Hinge and is proof that one can learn from their mistakes. Intended to offer a more complete protection, this design consists of a continuous piece of foam on the falling side while the bottom layer remains hinged. Adios dead-spots and hidden rocks.
Baffled
New to the market, the Mad Rock R3 is basically a design of 7 separate tubes stuffed with foam recycled therefore environmentally friendly. With the coat of a Taco and structure of a Hinge x6, this one does a great job on uneven ground. It is very versatile and it covers a large surface area. However it is very heavy (20 lbs) and expensive.
Choosing the right mat
According to the style of bouldering you’re going for, choose the mat with the right foam.
That being said, if you are likely to do steeper problems choose a softer foam, not necessarily thick so it can absorb the impact when you fall on your back or on a side. They’re also lighter and easier to carry.
If you are likely to do high-balls I would recommend a crash pad with enough thickness such as 5″ as you need the best you can get from the full advantage of a shock-absorbing softer foam layer.
I know we live in the era of “fast and light” and I declare myself guilty! However, when it comes to bouldering I do not recommend super light and compact crash pads.
Even if it’s easier to carry them around for sure they come short when it comes to offering protection. Plus, almost always an intelligent and efficient carrying system – just as with good backpacks, usually makes up for the heavier weight and larger size.
The best mats of 2024
Tested worldwide, by athletes or as a hobby, in the wilderness as well as at home, and not to mention in the parking lot as comfy sofas (not recommended), here is our selection of best bouldering pads in 2024:
Organic bouldering pads
Unique through their concept and production, Organic bouldering pads are not only environmentally friendly, functional and durable but also locally hand-made in the US.
Almost as organic as bouldering, the small company has a pretty big range of customised crash pads, from small to big, simple, super simple to thick, full and briefcase style.
Moon bouldering mats
Does the name “Moon” ring a bell to you? Yes, we’re both thinking about the same thing: Ben Moon who invented one of the most famous products in the world: THE Moonboard!
A legend for the worldwide climbing community, Moon Climbing is a Sheffield based company with environmental practices that belongs to the UK climber. Tested and experience based, Moon products consist of a wide range of climbing specific products including crash pads.
The Warrior bouldering pad won the UK Climbing’s Best test, being not only high quality when it comes to foam technology (closed-cell and open cell) but also when it comes to a super durable exterior. That being said, it will endure many bouldering sessions. Excellent at keeping your landings safe, Moon Warrior has a taco style folding system and is also easy to handle and carry. And a big plus: it can safely be stacked with multiple pads thanks to its anti-slide design.
The Circuit from Black Diamond
As we’re pretty sure there’s no need to introduce this brand, we’ll just cut to the chase by saying that Black Diamond offers plenty of choices.
If you’re new to bouldering and unsure of what gear to use, Circuit could be a decent option. While it’s not our top pick for protection, it’s still lightweight and easy to carry, even if you’re biking to your destination – to imply it fits everywhere. With its light design, we recommend it if you have to walk a lot to get to your boulders and meet up with other fanatics who bring their own gear as well.
Guts bouldering pad from Snap
Maybe one of the safest, Guts is not only one of the bravest but also one of the bulkiest. Maybe not the most attractive bouldering pad – because it’s heavier and not so comfy to carry and store, it will save your bum! Due to its foam technology that gives amazing “catches” even when your spotters don’t, it doesn’t have the classical bounce of other mats.
Tips and tricks for taking good falls
It is hard to decide which one is the most important as I believe every detail adds to the bigger picture of bouldering but I will try mentioning a few that are crucial to safety in bouldering.
Climbing, whether it’s bouldering or made with a rope remains a shared activity (except solo/free solo). And by “shared” I mean it involves having a partner with a good spotting stance, invested in the process and one who you can trust.
Good spotting
Make sure you have a good spotter, one that doesn’t shy away from redirecting a fall with his hands or adjusting crash-pads. Spotting involves touching because safety is what matters most!
Check out this video for tips on spotting:

Optimal pad placement
When placing pads for climbing or bouldering, it’s important to use the right side and prioritise potential dangers and consequences of a fall. Work together with your partner to determine the most likely areas for a fall and protect accordingly.
When using multiple pads, make sure to eliminate any gaps between them to avoid getting your ankle stuck in a crack or hitting the hard ground. If you’re traversing, it’s best if your spotter moves the pads along with you as you progress.
I recommend watching this video on pad placement:

Be alert
Bouldering is a sport that involves gymnastic movements, which can result in falling in unexpected positions at times. Therefore, it is crucial to remain alert and focused while climbing your problem.
You should neither be too tense nor too out of control just like in many other aspects of life where balance is key.
Check out this video on falling techniques in bouldering to learn how to practise safer falls:

Stack pads
If your problem involves a crux way high and you are worried about falling from the very top-out try stacking more pads for higher problems.
Look after your pads
Avoid dragging pads for environmental reasons and durability and keep in mind you have to adjust them before every attempt!
More pads
And last but not least: the more pads the better!
P.S. Not sure what to do when switching from indoor to outdoor climbing? We found this video for you and check out also our detailed guide on this topic:

Long story short
The outdoor market offers a lot of variety in bouldering mats. Depending on the style of bouldering you practise, you may want a specialised mat or a more general one.
However, it is essential to remember that crash pads are your best friend when it comes to protecting yourself from injuries and even death.
By choosing the right pad for the terrain and placing it correctly, you can not only keep your back and feet happy, but you will also stay longer in the game.
What is your favourite one and why?
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