Are you interested in learning how to go outdoor bouldering? Bouldering outside is extremely different from climbing in the gym. There is no air conditioning, no front desk to buy a snack from, and, most notably, there isn’t a giant foam mat under every boulder!
But don’t worry – I was confused when I first started bouldering outside and had to learn things the hard way. I’ve taken what I’ve learned and created this comprehensive guide to help you get started bouldering outside! Is it as straightforward as it seems?
What to Bring When You Go Outdoor Bouldering
When outdoor bouldering, you’re at the mercy of nature, so always check the forecast before heading out. Of course, you’ll want to bring your climbing shoes, chalk, and crash pad, but there are other things to consider. Pack layers and bring plenty of water anytime you’re climbing outside. Bringing layers ensures you don’t get too hot when hiking to the boulders and helps you stay warm between climbing attempts.
I recommend wearing breathable and stretchy pants when bouldering outside. This way, you’ll at least have a small barrier to protect your knees and shins from the rock. I’m a big advocate for sandals or Crocs when climbing outside. It’s much easier to slip on a pair of these than lace yours whenever you want to walk around.
I’m serious about the water thing. Bring water with you because there aren’t filtered fountains in nature. If it’s sunny out or the approach is long, bring extra water. It’s never bad to have too much water. Besides, if you don’t drink it all, just think of it as training weight!
Snacks! I self-proclaim as the snack guy when climbing outside because I’ll always stop to grab snacks. It’s important to bring snacks/food when adventuring outside. They help give you energy and can even be a way to meet others. Few people will say no when offered a snack!
A small first aid kit is great to have when bouldering outside. Always keep some climbing tape, plasters, super glue, and pain medicine in the event of an emergency. I recommend putting a pair of nail clippers in there, too. Too many times have I forgotten to clip my nails before bouldering. This made me keep a pair of nail clippers in the pocket of my chalk bucket.
Check the Weather!
Of course, the weather affects outdoor bouldering like any outdoor activity, but did you know you can damage rock if you climb while its wet? While sandstone is the most susceptible to damage caused by rain, it’s recommended to avoid climbing on all types of rock until it’s dry. You can’t see inside every granite crack on a climb, and limestone is extremely slippery when wet. Wait until the wind and sun have dried the rock before climbing on it.
(Tip for climbing on sandstone) Sandstone can sometimes take up to 72 hours to dry out. If you’re curious about if a sandstone boulder is dry enough to climb, try this tip: Dig into the soil a few cm, if the soil is wet, the rock is not ready to be climbed. You risk breaking holds and ruining boulders for other people if you climb when it’s wet.
There is no perfect temperature to climb, but there are better ones! Generally, the colder the temperature, the stickier the rock feels because there’s less humidity. However, the issue with climbing in the cold is keeping your fingers and feet warm. Cold fingers can result in injury, and cold feet can cause poor footwork.
(Tips for keeping warm on colder days) Layers, layers, more layers! The warmer your internal body temperature is, the easier it will be to warm up your extremities. Keep your climbing shoes tucked into your coat when you’re resting, and bring some hot pads for your hands and feet.
I sewed a chalk bag out of fire-retardent material and found some rocks that don’t combust with heat. If I’m climbing on a really cold day, I bring my small stove to heat the rocks and throw them in my chalk bag! (It’s a bit overkill, but it works!)
Crash Pads
Crash pads are your biggest friend when you go outdoor bouldering. A crash pad is a large foam mat you carry to each boulder you want to climb. They have backpack straps for longer approaches and, while quite big, are pretty light to carry. (It’s just a big foam mat).
Contrary to climbing gyms lined with massive foam matting throughout the bouldering area, climbing outside doesn’t have that luxury. Many boulderers who climb outside will have friends with crash pads so they can team up and provide a wider landing. Many times, the base of a boulder won’t be perfect, meaning it won’t be a flat and clear area. More crash pads are always preferred because you can easily cover obstacles like large rocks or tree stumps. All while still providing enough support in case a climber falls!
Crash pads are big and light, making them cumbersome to travel with. If you can’t fit all the crash pads you’re taking on a bouldering trip inside the car, consider strapping them to the roof. I’ve never climbed outside and been upset with having too many crash pads!
If you plan to climb highballs or taller boulders, I recommend choosing thicker and wider pads to cover a larger landing. This will let your spotter focus on spotting and not rearranging pads while you’re climbing.
Something great that my crashpad has, which I didn’t know until I received it in the mail, is a little carpet to wipe my feet off. You don’t have to deal with this indoors, but your shoes get dirty when climbing outside! It’s a great addition that attaches right to the pad. If you have a crashpad without one, I recommend bringing a towel to wipe off your shoes.
Be sure to check out our article on best crash pads before buying a new one.
Rock is Sharp!
I know it seems obvious, but I think it’s important to reiterate that rock is sharp! Climbing holds in a gym are designed to be climbed on, and while some micro-crimp screw-on holds may feel pointy, you’re in for a treat when you climb outside. You may think your skin is tough from climbing every week at the gym, but real rock is where you’ll build next-level calluses.
It doesn’t matter what type of rock you’re climbing on, sandstone, limestone, granite, basalt – it’s all sharp. I don’t intend to scare you by telling you that rock is sharp; I’m just telling you what to prepare for. Rock isn’t like glass; it won’t cut you just from touching it. But it may tear your skin quicker than a gym session would, resulting in a shorter climbing session.
Check out this article on how to care for your skin. Trust me, it’s more than just about resting!
Rock isn’t only sharp, but it can be loose, too. (Hence why you really shouldn’t climb when it’s wet). Holds break; sometimes it just happens, and there’s nothing we can do about it. But what you can do is learn how to identify potentially dangerous rocks.
Inspect a climb before you hop on a boulder. Look for blocks that appear to be protruding from the face. A tell-tale sign of a potentially dangerous rock is something surrounded by foliage. Foliage means cracks in the rock, and a hold might be loose. Use the “knock” test. Popular in alpine climbing, knock or hit the rock with your palm to hear for a hollow sound. If it sounds hollow, it could be loose, so tready lightly.
Flakes are also potentially dangerous to climb on. A flake is a section of thinner rock sticking out from the face. Knock on these and always be careful when climbing on flakes. If you find a piece of rock that is unsafe, draw a large “X” on it with chalk to inform other climbers.
Learn to Spot
Spotting is a crucial part of bouldering outside. It involves ensuring the climber lands safely on the mat during a fall. The best way to spot is to first assess the base of the boulder. Are there obstacles to be weary of, like large rocks or nearby trees? Good pad management requires observing the boulder’s surroundings.
When someone climbs, the spotter holds their arms out with gently bent elbows and cupped hands. Bent elbows to protect the spotter’s arms and cupped hands to prevent finger jams or breaks. “Spoons, not forks,” is the popular spotting saying for keeping hands cupped.
“I don’t spot in the gym; why should I be outside?”
Climbing gyms are designed with safety in mind and are equipped with large bouldering mats throughout the facility. The only pads you’ll need for outdoor bouldering are the ones you and your friends take. Setters consider the risk of a boulder when creating problems, but outdoor boulders are different. They can have risky moves above a bad landing zone, so ensure your crash pads are properly placed.
Spotting is to ensure the climber lands on a crash pad when falling. As the spotter, you’ll want the climber’s head to hit the mat last (if it must hit at all). It’s essential to focus and anticipate when spotting so you’re ready if your friends start hurling toward the ground.
Have you ever heard “communication is key?” This is true in all aspects of life, especially climbing. Inform your spotter if you’re gripped so they can be extra attentive to your moves. The spotter is what can stop you from rolling down a hill, bouncing off a rock, or falling into a tree. Communicate with them where you may fall!
Pad management
Good pad management requires observing the boulder’s surroundings and being attentive to the climber. It is more than throwing them down and hoping you fall on them.
You want your pads to touch like puzzle pieces. A sure way to hurt an ankle is by falling between two pads. For taller boulders, stack the pads to create a softer landing. You can even buy smaller pads that are thinner and softer for stacking.
Test out the landing before climbing. Jump up and down on the pads, imitate a potential fall, or do a belly flop (don’t really do a belly flop). You want to observe if the pads slide away from each other and ensure they’re in the proper place under the boulder.
Additionally, before anybody hops on, consider how the boulder climbs. If it traverses to one side or is overhung, the spotter must position the pads so the climber is always above them. This means they remove pads from where the climber has already climbed and place them next to where the climber is going.
Learn to Fall
“Learn to fall?” Yes, learn how to fall correctly! Of course, you’ll slip and fall with no time to think. Those times will happen, but if you practice the proper falling technique, you can minimize your risk of injury. Every fall in bouldering is a groundfall, so get good at it!
Always assess the fall from a boulder before you climb. Be honest with yourself and your climbing partners about where you may fall so your spotters are ready. You want to fall with bent knees and arms close to your body. Falling onto locked knees is a sure way to injure yourself, and outstretched arms can result in taking the brunt of a fall.
Crash pads are made of foam but are less thick than the large pads in a climbing gym. Try to absorb the shock of a fall as best you can. Consider stacking many pads to create a thicker landing area if you have many with you.
Falling outdoors is much riskier than falling in the gym. It’s easier to climb at your limit indoors because you have pads on all sides of you if you jump off a boulder. Outdoors, you only have pad coverage for however many pads you have. The risk of injury is significantly higher, so be prepared to have excellent spotters if you’re determined to climb at your limit when bouldering outdoors.
Crag Etiquette
Outdoor bouldering requires the same etiquette as taking a nature hike. Please respect the environment and others in it. Here is a checklist to make sure you have good outdoor ethics:
Leave No Trace: The most crucial rule when doing any outdoor activity is to leave no trace. This means cleaning up and making the area look like you were never there. Never litter! Always pack out what you pack in.
Leave the Speaker: Leave the speaker in the car if you’re at a popular climbing area. Nobody wants to hear your music while they’re trying their bouldering project. The only exception to this rule is if you are undoubtedly the only group in a climbing area. If you need to listen to music while you climb that bad, go to the gym.
Clean Up Your Chalk: From spilling your chalk to leaving tick marks on a boulder, clean it up. Part of the reason bouldering is so popular is that each climber must work out the beta. Leaving your tick marks ruins the chance for somebody else to have to figure out how to climb a problem.
How to Find Outdoor Bouldering
The quickest way to find outdoor bouldering is to paste one of these in your search bar:
- “Outdoor climbing near me”
- “Outdoor bouldering near me”
You can find guidebooks in our online shop, but if we do not have them for your local area, then we recommend visiting a local gear shop or climbing gym and asking around. In addition to describing the climbing, guidebooks typically have excerpts about the area’s history. Many areas have rules like where to park, whether animals are allowed, and boundary lines. Make sure you follow the rules to keep the climbing available to everyone.
Some other great tools to help you find outdoor climbing near you are Rockfax for the UK, Mountain Project for the US, or Boolder for Fontainebleau. You can download these apps and use them offline by downloading the area you want to climb. These sitaes lets you search for specific climbing grades and often have comments from other users about the approach or the climbs themselves.
Before your first outdoor bouldering adventure, make sure you know:
- The rules of an area
- How to spot
- How to fall
Time to Climb!
It’s time to get outside! Remember the most important rule of outdoor climbing: Leave No Trace. Brush those tick marks and clean up after yourself. You don’t want to be the reason climbing access at an area has been revoked!
Pack your layers and grab snacks because you know everything you need to start outdoor bouldering. That wasn’t too hard, right? You’ll have a great time if you properly prepare for bouldering outside!
Let us know in the comments where your next outdoor bouldering adventure will take you and if you have any tips of your own to share!
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