How To Return To Climbing After A Finger Injury

“Slow and steady”. This would be my short answer. But what does it imply? How much should you listen to your body, and how much should you pace yourself when it comes to climbing after a finger injury?

You’re just about to find out.

Understanding finger injuries in climbing

A finger injury is not the end of the world, but it is annoying, especially when you love crimping like I do. Been there, done that.

My very first climbing injury was a pulley. And I remember the moment it happened like it was today. It was a hot summer day and I was at the climbing gym.

I had just started climbing again after recovering from a long bout of bacterial pneumonia. Feeling both psyched and happy, I was thrilled to be back on the wall.

One problem kept drawing me in — an overhang boulder I kept trying again and again. After trying the same move over and over, at some point, I became mad with myself for not being able to do the sit start.

My finger started to make these weird light pops and this annoyed me even more. I went into denial, and I even remember saying to myself that “Oh, no! I just got back to climbing – that’s not happening!”

In my mind, I thought I was entitled to be able to do that move. Next thing I know, I heard a big pop and I felt pain in my finger.

Looking back at it, this finger injury was 100% on me, and it made sense: I got so upset with myself I even stopped taking proper breaks between tries, and I climbed tense.

I was probably before my period, which (now I know) meant more inflammation, therefore my body was more prone to injuries.

Common finger injuries among climbers

Pulley tears (A2 and A4)

The most common injury, especially in climbers who frequently crimp. A2 pulley tears are often caused by sudden loading or over-gripping small holds.

Tendonitis

Overuse of finger tendons leads to inflammation, usually presenting as dull or sharp pain during climbing or even at rest.

Tendon ruptures

A more severe version of tendonitis where tendons partially or completely tear, often accompanied by an audible ‘pop’.

Collateral ligament strains

Caused by lateral stress on the finger joints, especially when climbing with awkward hand positions.

How to return to climbing after a finger injury – complete rehabilitation protocol

My first finger injury was also the first climbing injury and it meant a big break from climbing because I did not know any better at the time. It sounds surreal nowadays, but 10 years ago, we didn’t have any climbing specialists in Romania. Do any of you relate?

Now, however, thanks to the wisdom of age and experience and also to surrounding myself with more experienced climbers, I know now a finger injury is not the end of it all, but a setback that makes you win.

An injury can be a chance for you to know your body better, build a better foundation, and come back stronger.

Rehabilitation and strengthening

1. Start with tendon gliding exercises and kinetic chain body stretches targeting the forearm flexors and extensors.

2. Massage therapy: Massaging fingers helps with blood flow, therefore, with a faster recovery. What I also do as a form of prevention is I use one hand to massage the other. Arnica oil helps with joint pain (arthralgia), inflammation, and bruising and I find it quite effective in the massage combination.

3. Progressive loading: Gradually reintroduce strain through specific exercises like finger rolls, isometric holds, and resistance band training.

4. Monitor pain and sensation, and alternate heat and ice if needed.

Learn to trust your body again

1. Use H-taping before you start climbing or training.

2. Use a mini portable board, such as the Metolious Wooden Rock Ring or the Penta to practice and learn again gradually what your fingers can do.

3. Begin with easy routes, focusing on open-hand grips before progressing to crimps. Implement a structured climbing training program with a balance of load and rest.

4. Start lower than you think in terms of volume and use a timer to monitor your climbing duration and take long rests to see how your body is responding.

5. Always climb open-handed and avoid crimping until you feel like your finger is strong enough

6. Continue massaging the finger.

The four climbing habits that lead to finger injury

Rest assured, we’ve all been there. But the fact that you are now reading this article shows me you’re already doing the right thing by informing yourself.

Overuse and repetitive moves

The nature of climbing, particularly bouldering with its dynamic, high-intensity moves, places tremendous stress on the fingers.

Making the same moves over and over – even projecting the same route every day for several weeks might create a sensitivity which, unattended, can lead to a climbing injury.

Watch these two steps to avoid injuries in climbing

Are you finding it hard to rest? Try harder.

Climbing is sort of a badass sport, and the nature of the sport revolves around pushing through pain and overcoming limits. Even so, you need rest.

Otherwise, if you keep pushing through when your body clearly says no (stiffness, pain, aches), you can worsen minor injuries or sensitivities.

Watch how to take care of sore tendons here:

Too much muscle, too little technique

Most beginners think climbing is all about muscle, and especially strong hands. As a result, they start training early on.

Don’t get me wrong: Finger strength is indeed a very important aspect in climbing. However, it is not the first thing that should be on your mind, especially when you are at the beginning.

Do you want to do yourself a favour in the long run?

Focus on body conditioning and combine it with plenty of climbing.

Don’t be part of those beginners who often make the mistake of pulling too hard and relying solely on their strength to climb.

This can lead to putting strain on your tendons and pulleys, and eventually to injury because of incorrect gripping techniques.

Watch pro climbers’ advice for your first year of climbing here:

Skipping the warm-up

I used to be that climber who rushed straight into climbing, often warming up on “easy routes” or even jumping right into my projects.

I learned the hard way that taking a little time for warm-ups, like using elastic bands, doing some hanging exercises, and incorporating hip rolls for just 10 minutes, can really help prevent injuries down the line.

Warm-up increases blood flow and muscle elasticity. As a result, it reduces the risk of injury by preparing your body to rock and roll. (pun intended) It basically makes you a ninja on the wall.

Watch climbing warm up (super quick):

Monitoring the recovery as much as the injury

When you return to climbing after a climbing injury it is not always easy to listen to your body while following protocols. This can be a tricky thing, especially if it’s your first time. Monitor pain levels regularly and adjust the intensity of your training accordingly.

Pay attention to how your finger feels: if it’s a good sensation or if you experience pain. Although tempting to do more, especially when feeling good, always follow physio’s recommendations, just to be on the safe side. It’s best to start building gradually rather than too much too fast.

And last, but not least, remember that each body responds differently to injury, and factors such as home environment, mental health, and just the way each body is made differently can be important aspects in your healing.

Check out the video of ​​how to deal with a climbing injury and come back stronger:

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