Highball bouldering: What is the difference to free solo?

Highball bouldering is the pursuit of freedom that toes on the edge of free soloing. Highballing has become a popular form of climbing among boulderers that, from the outside, looks insane.

Many climbers have begun seeking highballs and pushing their limits. These climbers are balancing on rocks and between the lines of personal pursuit and possible death.

What is highball bouldering?

A climber scaling their way up a rock far enough above their crash pad that it’s likely useless in the event of a fall. That’s highball bouldering.

Highball bouldering is, to some, free soloing. Highballing consists of climbing a tall rock without ropes and using crash pads for protection. Many people will ask why they use crash pads when highballing, and I have a semi-logical answer for you.

Any highball boulderer will tell you that there comes a point on a climb deemed the “no fall zone.” This zone, if fallen beyond, will almost certainly result in severe injury or be fatal.

The crash pads try to help if a climber falls past this point and minimise damage, but they’re mainly there if they fall below this threshold.

How tall is a highball?

You’re likely to receive mixed answers when you ask at what height deems a boulder a highball, just as I’ll provide. Some climbers say 5 metres, some say 8, others 10, and those even bolder climbers will say higher.

I asked some friends, and their consensus was around 6 metres, although others will claim that’s just a “tall boulder.” There doesn’t seem to be a one-size-fits-all answer to the height of a highball. Your comfort with heights and risk are the leading factors in your decision.

The answer lies within what you consider a highball. However, there is a requirement highballs seem to need to meet.

The consequences of falling must include a high risk of injury, if not death.

What is the difference between highball bouldering and a free solo?

To me, there isn’t a difference. A climber scaling up a 10 metre wall with only pads as protection is a climber free soloing.

I’ve climbed bolted climbs shorter than that. Sure, they were short for sport routes, but I still had my safety net of gear.

Some climbers will determine if a boulder is, in fact, a highball by analysing where the last “hard” move it. If it’s below a certain height, they’ll just call it a tall boulder problem.

Many climbers won’t consider boulders with a long slab runout a highball because of their low-angle top-out.

You could climb 4 metres to the lip of a boulder, mantel over, and have another 4 metres.

Ultimately, only those who climb highball boulders get to determine what constitutes a highball.

I understand that having this gray area of decision-making can be hard to understand, but to me, so is highballing.

What may be a highball for me may not be a highball to you.

Popular highball boulder films

Highballing is not for the faint of heart. You must be mentally disciplined enough to withstand climbing far above the ground with only pads for protection.

If you want to get your palms sweating and visit the world of highball bouldering, you need to check out these videos:

High and Mighty Part 1

The Reel Rock tour has provided psych for climbers with their short, inspiring films over the last decade. Season 2 of Reel Rock, released in 2016, showcased the world of highballing.

Professional climbers Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, and Nina Williams share what it’s like to climb above the “no-fall zone.”

During a trip to South Africa, the group climbed one of the world’s hardest highballs.

Grab a chalk bag because you’ll need it when you sit down for this.

Ambrosia

You may recognize Kevin Jorgeson from his ascent of the Dawn Wall with prolific climber Tommy Caldwell. Before the two forces joined, Jorguson was primarily a boulderer.

Jorgeson became known for Ambrosia’s first ascent (FA) in 2009, a crazy highball problem in the Eastern Sierras.

Ambrosia sits at almost 17 meters high! Jorgeson says, “Ambrosia could have been fatal if you fell in the wrong place for sure.”

The High Road Part 1

Nina Williams also pushed the boundaries between bouldering and free-soling during her ascent of Too Big to Flail. Having already sent Ambrosia, Nina went after something even bigger.

This climb stands almost 18 meters tall! I’ve clipped bolts on routes shorter than that.

In “The High Road,” Nina is shown keeping it together with a smattering of crash pads far beneath her. The Buttermilks seem to be the place to go if you want to go highballing!

Try to keep your eyes open as you watch Williams delicately dance her way to the top.

Popular highball boulders

Climbers flock to famous rocks to try their hand at the “classics.” While I’m sure many more highballs are waiting to be scrubbed, here is a list of the most popular:

The Buttermilks – Bishop, California

The Buttermilks is known for its immense concentration of rocks, especially highballs. A sea of granite awaits those who trek into its bountiful boulders.

The three most famous are the Ambrosia, Evilution, and Too Big to Flail.

Ambrosia – V11

17 Metres: FA by Kevin Jorgeson

Nina Williams helps to fill you in on just how tall this climb is: Nina Williams on Ambrosia (V11)

Evilution – V12/13

17 Metres: FA Jason Kehl

Enjoy this grainy video of Jason Kehl’s first ascent of Evilution:

Too Big to Flail – V10

18 Metres: FA by Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold was never big on videoing his ascents, luckily Nick Muehlhausen has us covered:

Yosemite Valley – California

Yosemite is best known for its massive granite walls and is home to North America’s best big wall climbing.

But did you know that a boulderer can also spend a lifetime scrambling around? There aren’t many highballs documented in the Valley.

There are even fewer if you don’t consider Alex Honnold’s free solo of El Cap as a highball…

However, there are world-class lines that will cater to any style of climber!

King Air – V10

9+ Metres: FA Dean Potter

Lonnie Kauk gets it done!

Midnight Lightning – V8

Not a highball, but a tall boulder that gets an honorable mention for being the classic boulder problem at Camp 4: FA Ron KaukBadWater Bouldering shot a cinematic video of this iconic boulder over on Youtube: The MOST FAMOUS Boulder in the world… Midnight Lightning (v8) – Yosemite, CA

Hueco Tanks – Texas

Hueco Tanks is where the V scale got its name after John “Vermin” Sherman (Verm) created the guidebook. Verm’s system soon took over North America as the official boulder grading.

The Maiden – V0

11 Metres: FA Unknown

Youtuber DevClimbs shows us just how tall this problem is:

See Spot Run – V6

8 Metres: FA Unknown

Youtuber andyliu84 demonstrates the delicateness needed to scale this highball: Hueco Tanks Bouldering:

Rocklands – South Africa

Rocklands is home to some of the best bouldering in the world, especially if highballs are your thing. The last decade has shown how incredible the rock and the lines of South Africa are.

Many professional climbers travel across the globe to sample the ample boulders.

The Finnish Line – V16

8 Meters: FA Nalle Hukkataival

Check out this video of his first ascent here:

Livin’ Large – V15

8 Metres: FA Nalle Hukkataival

Check out Ryuichi Murai on this incredible arete problem: 

Have you considered highballing?

Climbing close to, or above, the “no-fall zone” can be an exhilarating experience. It can also be terrifying!

If you’re interested in learning more about starting your highball journey, check out these tips below:

Perfect the pads

You’ll want as many pads as you can get your grimy hands on. More pads = more protection.

Carrying 10 crashpads is no easy task though; you’ll want some help.

Find a group of climbers who can contribute their pads to your cause!

Climb easy

Familiarise yourself with getting high by climbing problems well within your repertoire. Slowly increase the grade as you become comfortable with the exposure of climbing high above the ground.

Your head game is equally as important as your strength when climbing highballs.

Stay relaxed and trust yourself.

Rehearse the climb on a rope

When you’ve decided on a highball boulder at your limit, you’ll want to eliminate any surprises.

Rehearse the climb as much as you can on a rope (especially the top) before committing to the send go.

Spotters

Gather all those friends you made when you asked to borrow their pads and have them spot for you.

They can shuffle your landing around and support you as you climb into the heavens on your highball.

Understand your limit

You have nothing to prove by pushing through a climb at your limit with the risk of injuring yourself.

Understanding when to back down and acknowledge you’re not ready is a significant trait any highball boulderer should possess.

Conquering the fear of falling

A highball requires absolute control. Control of your movements, of your comfort with height, and control with your fear of falling.

The mental side to climbing is heightened when you tackle a highball. Bouldering is the only climbing discipline that requires falling to the ground.

Each successful fall helps build your confidence, compounding this skill set as you climb higher problems.

To climb a highball, you must conquer the fear of falling.

Not that you can’t be nervous, but you must make decisions based on your abilities and be safety-conscious.

What are your thoughts?

We’re the makers of our reality; there is no standard for what a highball is. So, what do you think?

How tall must a boulder be to be considered a highball? What height constitutes a free solo?

If you’re considering trying a highball boulder, build up to it. Increase your confidence by climbing easier problems and conquer your fear of falling.

When it’s time, grab your friends, their pads, and all the stoke because it’s time to get high!

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