A dirtbag climber is an individual who’s sole pursuit is climbing. It sounds like a slur but a true dirtbag is proud to be called one. Often by skirting their way through life on the fringes, a dirtbag will stop at nothing to succeed in their lifestyle.
When I say stop at nothing, I mean living in their car (or tent), usually posted up near a popular climbing destination, eating food from the dumpster. No, I don’t mean the person who left their high-salaried tech job to move into their van for the summer. True dirtbags live their life with one goal: climbing as much as possible.
From the outside, dirtbags don’t seem unique to regular society. In my eyes, dirtbags embody the best thing about society. A person who will sacrifice so much in life, like warm food, predictable income, a soft bed, a reliable shower, etc., to follow their passion. Dirtbags have the most passion of any group of people I’ve met. They’re willing to eat the stale bread the bakeshop threw in the dumpster to survive and will take a short job doing any menial task to have enough gas to make it to their next climbing area.
Origins and evolution of dirtbag climbing culture
Fred Beckey is thought to be the original dirtbag climber. After graduating college in 1949, he tried working but found it interfered with his climbing. He never married nor had children and never again pursued a professional career. Known for nearly a thousand first ascents throughout his lifetime, Beckey’s love was climbing.
Throughout the 20th century, many dirtbags lived in Camp 4 in Yosemite National Park. A few of the many notable climbers are Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, and Yvon Chouinard. These dirtbag climbers are responsible for dozens of FAs (first ascents) on Yosemite’s big walls.
Then, in the 70s, a group of dirtbag climbers known as the Stonemasters took the climbing world by storm. Living in the valley for months, these climbers had only one pursuit: rock climbing. From dodging park rangers to pushing the limits of big wall climbing, the Stonemasters were one of the groups at the forefront of Yosemite Valley climbing.
Among the widely popular group are legendary climbers such as John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Lynn Hill, and John Long. The first ascent of El Cap (El Capitan) in a day, a nearly 3,000 ft tall granite monolith, was completed by Stonemaster members Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay, and John Long. A feat thought impossible. Nowadays, there is competition among climbers for the fastest time up El Cap. Famous rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold hold the record for their sub-two-hour ascent in 2018.
Why are some rock climbers called dirtbags?
People who stereotype rock climbers refer to them as dirtbags. Unfortunately, most people don’t understand that being called a dirtbag is more of a badge of honor than anything. Anybody who enjoys activities outside of the norm is always subject to criticism. Society would see what a true dirtbag is if every climber were a dirtbag.
The reality is that rock climbers are made up from all walks of life. From teachers to doctors to lawyers and everything under the sun, climbers are everywhere. Dirtbags, however, are rarer, especially as society evolves and it’s become more work to be a dirtbag than it used to.
How to be a dirtbag climber
A dirtbag climber must work a little differently nowadays. From locked dumpsters to overzealous park rangers, they must be smart. Many places only allow a certain number of days to park your car or pitch your tent, meaning you’ll need to move around frequently. Here are a few tips to get you ready for dirtbag culture.
Dissolve your ego
Don’t worry about what people will think of you as there is no time for this. You need to figure out your food, where you’ll sleep, and what you’ll climb.
Be cheap
You want the cheapest options, from clothes to food to gear. Ideally, you’ll find free clothes from Lost & Found boxes, beg restaurants for food they’re throwing out (or dumpster dive) and take whatever gear you can get your hands on.
Work remotely
This is the best option for those who want to dirtbag immediately without a penny to their name. Alternatively, you can find seasonal jobs in different parks that will allow you to sleep and shower for part of your wages.
Be dirty
“Dirt”-bag, right? You’re going to be dirty; revel in it. Bathe as much as you wish in lakes or streams but understand that you’re just going to be dirty most of the time.
Plan for suffering
You will suffer; there’s no way around it. Knowing you’ll suffer some for the dirtbag climber lifestyle before you go full-fledged into it will give you the upper hand.
Communicate with other dirtbags
Post up at a climbing destination or search our forum for other dirtbags. You’ll want a partner for those long climbing days, therefore why not find a semi-consistent like-minded climber before you go your separate ways?
Dirtbag climber movies
Want to get psyched about your new lifestyle? Check out these dirtbag climber movies about that will make you quit your office job and move into your car tomorrow:
Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey
A documentary surrounding who some call the grandfather of dirtbags, Fred Beckey, showcases his desire for climbing above all else.
Valley Uprising
The Stonemasters show what life was like in Yosemite Valley in the 70s during the rise of hard big wall climbing. From sneaking around park rangers to finding a crashed plane full of marijuana, their story has encouraged many others to find the dirtbag climber life.
Safety Third
Brad Gobright was an incredibly talented rock climber who tragically perished after a rappelling accident in 2019. Safety Third is about his death-defying free solos and talent as a dirtbag climber.
The Dawn Wall
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson team up to climb El Cap’s Dawn Wall. Taking 19 days to climb, and endless amounts of skin, this movie shows what big wall climbing is all about.
Free Solo
Arguably the most famous rock climber on the planet, Alex Honnold’s Free Solo gives us an up-close view into his world as a free soloist. This movie is about the first free solo ascent of El Capitan. Get ready for sweaty palms.
Still wanna be a dirtbag climber?
Dirtbagging isn’t for the fainthearted. If you want to join the dirtbag climber lifestyle, be prepared to be miserable, dirty, and hungry. The caveat? Climb every day.
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