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Types of climbing: The different disciplines to know

Ready for an exhilarating journey into the different types of climbing? From bouldering to trad climbing, there’s a style for every adventurer! This comprehensive guide to the different climbing disciplines will make you want to get your climbing shoes and go!

Learn the secrets of aid climbing, discover how thrilling sport climbing is and how it can test your limits, and imagine yourself on a big wall like El Cap while you haul your portaledge and days’ worth of food and water!

Trad (Traditional) Climbing

Trad climbing distinguishes itself from other climbing styles by depending on removable protection placed by the climber. In contrast to sport climbing, where preplaced bolts offer protection, trad climbers meticulously choose and position gear like cams, nuts, and hexes into cracks and fissures while ascending.

This approach to climbing requires an elevated level of expertise, decision-making, and self-sufficiency as climbers assess the rock’s features and identify the most secure placements for their protection.

I’ve been trad climbing for a few years and can confidently say I’m climbing far below my limit. Trad climbing requires extensive knowledge of your protection and an immense amount of trust in yourself and your gear. I’ve pumped out on 5.9, not because the moves were complicated, but because I was scared!

Trad climbers carry diverse gear to secure them to the wall. By regularly placing this protection along the route, climbers create a safety net to arrest a fall and prevent severe injuries.

This gear includes:

  • Camelots (Cams) – Spring-loaded devices that expand to fit into cracks.
  • Nuts/Wires/Stoppers – Small metal wedges placed in constrictions.
  • Hexes – Hexagonal-shaped pieces of metal that can be wedged into cracks.

The act of placing protection demands precision and discernment. Initially, the climber evaluates the rock’s features to identify the optimal placement for their gear. Factors such as the crack’s size and shape, the direction of force on the gear, and the general stability of the rock are considered. This process requires a delicate equilibrium between securing safe placements and sustaining a smooth climbing rhythm.

Technical skills are paramount in this rock climbing type, with a particular emphasis on developing crack climbing technique, which is less intuitive compared to face climbing. Ample practice in placing protection is essential to ensure secure gear positioning, which can and should be done on the ground to help you get comfortable.

Additionally, climbers should master efficient rope management, comprehend anchor building, and be proficient in various rope systems and knots. This multifaceted skill set is crucial for a successful and safe trad climbing experience.

Sport Climbing

Sport climbing is a climbing style that depends on preplaced protection. In contrast to trad climbing, where climbers place their own gear, sport climbers ascend routes with bolts permanently fixed to the rock throughout a climb. As they ascend, they secure their safety by clipping their quickdraws into these bolts for protection.

A defining feature of sport climbing is the existence of fixed anchors, usually bolts drilled into the rock, offering easily accessible protection. Climbers utilise quickdraws, consisting of two carabiners linked by a nylon or dyneema sling, to connect themselves to these bolts.

While ascending the route, they systematically clip the rope through the quickdraws, ensuring that they will be caught in the event of a fall by the last bolt clipped.

Fixed anchors simplify the protection process and allow climbers to focus primarily on their movement and technique. Unlike trad climbing, where gear placement can be time-consuming and mentally demanding, sport climbers can move swiftly and efficiently, relying on the bolts to catch any falls.

Lead Climbing

Technically, lead climbing is a form of free climbing (see below). Any time you’re trad or sport climbing, you’re lead climbing. The lead climber is the one who is climbing. They’re leading the climb. Then you have the belayer. Once you switch, the lead climber becomes the belayer, and the belayer becomes the lead climber.

Free Climbing

Free climbing, distinct from free soloing (discussed separately), involves climbing without aid while utilising gear for protection. Both trad and sport climbing fall under the category of free climbing, which seems confusing.

In free climbing, gear is employed primarily for safety rather than to assist in upward progress. This approach lets climbers explore challenging routes, knowing protection is readily available. However, the climbing relies solely on the climber’s physical capabilities, demanding strength, endurance, and technical proficiency.

Big Wall Climbing

Big wall climbing stands out as a unique rock climbing type due to the grand scale and magnitude of the routes involved.

Imagine climbing a 60-meter route (already an impressive feat!) and then doing that 30 more times. That is what some big wall climbs are like. In contrast to other climbing types that can be completed within a single day, more commonly in a few minutes, big wall climbing often necessitates multi-day endeavors.

Climbers tackling big walls sleep on the wall, sometimes utilizing a specialized tent known as a “portaledge,” which they fix to the rock. These routes traverse expansive cliffs or mountains and present substantial challenges. They demand climbers have elevated levels of endurance, technical proficiency, and mental fortitude.

Furthermore, big wall climbing demands efficient and safe rope management. Climbers must build and maintain sturdy anchor systems, manage the rope for efficient belaying and rappelling, and coordinate communication with their partner(s). The ability to handle these logistical challenges while maintaining focus and determination is essential for success in big wall climbing.

Multi-pitch routes live up to their name, comprising multiple “pitches” or segments of climbing, connected by belays. Climbers ascend one pitch at a time, establish a belay station, bring up their partner, and proceed to the next pitch.

This step-by-step approach enables climbers to tackle much more challenging routes than in a single continuous effort. It’s worth noting that some top climbers have pushed these limits and accomplished big wall routes in a single day, showcasing exceptional skill and efficiency.

They also must navigate difficult route finding, often relying on guidebooks, digital apps (like UK climbing and Mountain Project), or their instincts to identify the best path upward. Exposure to the elements, including extreme temperatures and unpredictable weather, adds complexity and risk to the endeavor.

Multi-pitch climbing is how you climb a big wall, but you don’t need to climb a big wall to climb multi-pitch routes. Some of the most fun I’ve had out was climbing chill multi-pitch routes consisting of three or four pitches!

Aid Climbing

Aid climbing sets itself apart from other forms of climbing by incorporating the strategic use of gear and tools to assist in the ascent rather than relying solely on physical climbing. Specialised equipment is used like aiders and ascenders to navigate a rock face.

Aiders are foot loops that allow climbers to step up and maintain their position while ascending a rope or ladder-like structure. Ascenders are mechanical devices gripping the rope that help the climber ascend while the gear supports the climber’s weight.

In addition to these tools, climbers depend on various protective gear, including camming devices, nuts, and sometimes old pitons. These are employed to secure themselves to the rock and safeguard against potential falls. Positioned in cracks or fissures, these devices act as temporary anchors, offering stability and support as climbers progress.

Aid climbing demands a high level of safety awareness and experience. Climbers must thoroughly understand gear placement, load distribution, and anchor-building techniques to ensure safety throughout the ascent.

Experience is crucial in aiding climbing, enabling climbers to cultivate a discerning eye for route selection, gear placement, and movement efficiency. Over time, climbers gain familiarity with the intricacies of aid climbing, honing their techniques and building confidence in their abilities. An experienced aid climber possesses the skill to navigate complex routes, effectively handle the challenges of vertical terrain, and make calculated decisions, ensuring a successful ascent.

Free Soloing

Free soloing is undoubtedly the most dangerous form of rock climbing. Without the safety net of ropes or gear, a single misstep or loss of focus can lead to catastrophic consequences. The risks are inherent, and the margin for error is virtually nonexistent.

Alex Honnold, widely recognized as the world’s most famous free solo climber, made headlines by ascending Freerider on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a 900+ meter tall rock formation. What typically takes multiple days to complete, Honnold accomplished in just 4 hours without a rope. The absence of traditional climbing gear allows for a quicker ascent, showcasing the remarkable skill and audacity required for free soloing.

I strongly advise against free soloing for anyone due to the potentially fatal consequences of a fall. Even tall boulder problems, known as high balls, make me uneasy. However, if you’re interested, consider the following aspects:

  • Developing a solid foundation of technical proficiency, route-reading ability, and understanding your physical limitations is essential for free soloing and continued climbing. Climbers gain a deep familiarity with the rock, enabling informed decisions about manageable routes and those to be avoided. Many free solo climbers meticulously free climb a route several times before attempting to solo it, ensuring mastery of every move.
  • Mental preparation is equally crucial in free soloing. Cultivating unwavering focus, discipline, and emotional control is vital. Remaining calm under pressure and effectively managing fear is paramount. Techniques like visualization, mindfulness practices, and mental rehearsals help maintain a clear and composed mindset throughout the climb.
  • Free soloing should only be undertaken by highly experienced climbers, with the requisite skills, physical fitness, mental resilience, and a keen understanding of their limitations. The inherent risks demand the utmost caution and responsibility.

Instead, seek out some deep-water soloing! Deep-water soloing is free soloing above a body of water. It includes all the thrills of free soloing with the added protection of falling into the water. However, just because you’re falling into water doesn’t make it safe. Falling into water correctly is essential, so try to avoid falling sideways or on your back.

Bouldering

Bouldering is known for its intensity and emphasis on individual moves. Climbers engage with “boulder problems,” short sections or sequences of climbing moves that require strength, coordination, and balance. Bouldering problems are commonly found on low boulders or small rock formations, enabling climbers to focus on specific movements without needing ropes or other protective gear.

Bouldering uses crash pads and spotters to minimise the risks of falling. Crash pads, thick foam mats, are strategically placed at the base of the boulder to cushion potential falls, providing protection and reducing the risk of injuries. Spotters position themselves strategically around the boulder to guide and safeguard the climber and ensure a secure landing if they fall.

Interseted in bouldering? Check out our article on hardest boulders in the world.

Speed Climbing

Speed climbing is a type of climbing where, you guessed it, speed is the goal. The main form of speed climbing is in a competition setting. It is mostly performed in the Olympics or an International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) event.

A competition speed climbing route doesn’t change. It is always on a 49M tall wall overhung by 5 degrees. Using an auto belay, a speed climber tries to climb the route in the fastest amount of time. The current men’s speed climbing record is 4.90 seconds, which is held by Veddriq Leonardo. Aleksandra Miroslaw holds the current women’s speed climbing record at 6.24 seconds.

Still confused?

This is a really useful video that explains the main types of climbing for beginners:

YouTube video

Outdoor vs. Indoor Climbing

Outdoor climbing can include any of the above styles, including top roping. Indoor climbing can only be sport climbing, top roping, or bouldering. With indoor sport climbing, the climber doesn’t need to bring their gear to secure themselves. The quickdraws are already in place for each climb.

The 2024 Summer Olympics will host climbing, beginning on August 5, at the Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis. In the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, boulder, lead, and speed climbing were all categorised into one competition. After receiving backlash from the athletes about unfairness between the speed climbers and the bouldering-and-lead combined climbers, the new format will have a medal for speed climbing and another for bouldering-and-lead combined.

Top roping is climbing with the rope set up at the top of a route. It’s an excellent introductory method for beginner climbers to test their skills with heights.

Most, if not all, gyms offer bouldering. With preplaced large mats, bouldering inside is a great way to get comfortable climbing without a rope. If you’re bouldering outside, position the pads under the climber as they move!

Conclusion: What’s Your Favourite?

That’s it! Those are all kinds of rock climbing you can encounter in the wild or a gym. Most climbing requires extensive knowledge, so learn from trustworthy climbers or guides. If you only plan to climb indoors, you don’t need to worry- the gym will have everything you need.

Do you have a favorite type of climbing, or is there one you’d like to learn? Let us know!

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2 Comments

  1. Sam

    I love bouldering as it’s possible all year round, since moving to Cornwall I have really got into trad as it very embedded in the culture.

    Reply
    • Korey

      Hi Sam,

      Trad climbing and the UK have a rich history! I’m jealous you get to experience such a formative area of traditional climbing. I hope to make my way there one day!

      Reply

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