Bouldering grades can either be the bane of your existence or they can push you to climb harder. Imagine traveling overseas to climb and you find a guidebook with a different grading system than you’ve never used!
Instead of picking out a boulder based on if you think it’ll be a warmup, familiarise yourself with the differences in bouldering grades and how they convert to each other.
What are Bouldering Grades?
Bouldering grades are defined as the difficulty of a boulder problem. While different grading systems exist worldwide, they can be converted to each other, allowing every climber to understand what grade a problem is.
Bouldering grades help climbers understand whether they should be able to climb a problem or if something may be too difficult for them. They guide climbers to choose problems that align with their skill level, ensuring a challenging yet enjoyable experience.
Bouldering grades are a crucial component of the climbing community. They provide a standardised system to evaluate the difficulty of specific boulder problems. The importance of these grades lies in their role as a universal language among climbers. By having a shared understanding of the difficulty of climbs, climbers can communicate effectively, set appropriate goals, and track their progress over time.
Main Bouldering Grading Systems
There are 3 main bouldering grading systems:
- V scale
- Font scale
- UK grading
V Scale
The V Scale was created by a climber named John “Verm” Sherman. He introduced this grading scale by releasing the bouldering guidebook Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide in 1991. He initially didn’t include grades for the climbs until his publisher, George Meyers, pressured him to release the book with a grading system attached, so Verm created the V-Scale.
The V Scale is a numerical grading system that spans from V0 (the easiest) to V17 (extremely challenging). The straightforward and open-ended nature of the V-Scale allows climbers to grasp the difficulty level of a climb quickly. It also allows for even more challenging climbs to still be graded. Each increase in the numerical value represents a noticeable increase in challenge, making it easier for climbers to progress and choose climbs that match their evolving abilities.
With climbing grades, you’ll find the angle of the wall directly relates to the difficulty of a problem. An overhung boulder with large holds requires power to complete. However, a slab (forward leaning) boulder problem can force more technical climbing. Both are very different styles, yet can be the same grade of difficulty on the V-Scale.
The V Scale isn’t perfect. It doesn’t consider risk and is strictly dedicated to the technical difficulty of the climb. A boulder can be graded as a V1, but it may feel harder if the top is 6 meters off the ground.
As the dominant grading system for bouldering in North America, you may also find a + or – associated with a bouldering grade. For example, a V5- would mean the boulder is an easier V5, while a V5+ would imply a harder V5. These are typically used in bouldering guidebooks and not usually found in gyms.
Fontainebleau System (Font)
The Font-grade is among the oldest grading systems in climbing. It can be traced back to Michel Libert’s boulder L’Abbatoir, which he climbed in 1960. At a grade of 7A, this was a tremendous feat during the 60s.
The Font Scale is the predominant grading scale in Europe and parts of Asia and was established long before the V Scale. This grading system originated in France from climbers in one of the world’s most popular bouldering areas in Fontainebleau.
The Fontainebleau grading system, widely embraced in Europe, combines letters and numbers to add complexity. Ranging from 1A (the easiest) to 9A+ (very hard), this system provides a more detailed assessment of a climb’s characteristics. The letter denotes technical or physical challenges, while the number reflects the overall difficulty.
The letter in the Font Scale doesn’t show up until grade 6. Instead of simply using a higher number, it throws in algebra and includes either an A, B, or C. For example, a 6A is easier than a 6B, and a 6B is easier than a 6C. Further, a 7A is harder than a 6C.
However, each grade above 6 can also have a + or – attached to it. This addition defines a boulder that is graded 6B+ is slightly harder than 6B, but still easier than 6C. Climbers using the Fontainebleau system benefit from a more nuanced understanding of a climb’s intricacies, allowing them to choose climbs that align with their specific strengths and preferences.
UK Climbing Grades
UK bouldering grades are a bit trickier to understand and not seen frequently but they tell much more about a climb than the V Scale or Font grading. The first part of the grade gives the climb’s overall difficulty, and the second part indicates how technical the climb is. Together, they suggest how hard a climb is vs how difficult it will be.
The first part is known as the adjecteval grade. This grade is and influenced by many different aspects, such as seriousness, sustainedness, technical difficulty, exposure, strenuousness, rock quality, and anything else that can lead to the difficulty of the climb.
This open-ended system begins at Easy, which is hardly climbing, and goes to E11, the most difficult climbing. Tied to this grade, in ascending order, it will have one of the following: Moderate (M), Difficult (D), Hard Difficult (HD), Very Difficult (VD), Hard Very Difficult (HVD), Severe (S), Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), and Extremely Severe which breaks up into different categories of severeness with E1, E2, E3, etc.
The second part is called the technical grade These grades run from easier to harder: 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5 b, 5c, 6a, 6 b, 6c, 7a, 7b. There can be a single or many moves of the same difficulty, but this grade will tell you the hardest move.
When combined, you get the grade for the whole climb. Climbs of a particular adjectival grade usually have an associated average technical grade. For example, they can look like this: S, 4a; HS, 4b; VS, 4c; HVS, 5a; E1, 5b; E2, 5c. When grades are higher than this, the technical grade starts to slow down in relation to the adjectival grade.
The UK grading system is confusing to learn, but it gives the most knowledge about a climb!
Understanding Boulder Grades as a Beginner
Start with Beginner-Friendly Grades
Begin your climbing journey with grades like V0 or 1A. These grades are designed to introduce fundamental climbing techniques and build foundational strength and confidence. Any climbing gym you enter will have an abundance of these grades to encourage beginner climbers.
Progress Gradually
As you gain experience, challenge yourself by attempting climbs slightly above your comfort zone. Gradual progression ensures a balance between pushing your limits and maintaining an enjoyable climbing experience.
If you immediately try something way above your skill level, it’s easy to get discouraged. Keep trying slightly more challenging boulder problems as you improve, and you’ll find what part of your climbing you’ll need to work on.
Pay Attention to Climbing Style and Features
Recognise that boulder problems can vary significantly based on factors such as hold types, steepness, and required strength. Understanding the nuances of different climbing styles will enhance your ability to assess and tackle a variety of climbs effectively.
For example, I love climbing slabs because they require precise footwork and body positioning. In contrast, when climbing overhung problems, I just try to do them quickly before I get pumped out.
Seek Guidance from Experienced Climbers
Connect with more experienced climbers or seek guidance from climbing instructors. They can provide valuable insights into local grading variations, share tips on specific climbs, and offer guidance on technique and strategy.
Learning from the experiences of others accelerates your understanding of bouldering grades and contributes to a more fulfilling climbing journey. The best way to improve your climbing is to climb with people stronger than you who push you to climb harder.
Climbing Grades Conversion
Here are guidelines to help you understand the differences between the V-Scale and the Font bouldering grade systems:
Beginner: V0 to V2 / 4 to 5+
Many people who have been climbing for a few months are typically within this range of grades. Progress between these grades is usually straightforward. These grades require basic techniques to master more than pure strength. The holds are generally large, and the problems are easy to read.
Intermediate: V3 to V6 / 6A to 7A
Problems in this range require more finger strength and technique, but progress is still quick at this level. As an avid climber, V4/6B should be attainable by regularly climbing and learning to move your body efficiently.
Advanced: V7 to V10 / 7A+ to 7C
Many climbers plateau around this area because the climbing requires more strength and dedication for improvement. However, these grades can be obtained by implementing formal training.
Pro: V11 to V13 / 8A to 8B
Climbing above V11 will require immense strength, technique, and dedication. Many climbers don’t ever reach these grades. Climbers at this level will surely be strong and have been climbing for many years.
Monster: Over V14 / Over 8B+
The only climbers in this range are the best in the world. They are likely either professional climbers or at least sponsored by outdoor brands and have likely been climbing since they were children. For many of us, climbing V13/8B+ and up is only a dream!
Check our article on hardest boulder problems in the world to see some real life ‘monster’ problems.
Full conversion
A useful conversion table to refer to as you progress on your journey to ‘monster’ level:
Experience |
V-Scale | Font Scale |
Beginner | V0 | 4 |
V1 | 5 | |
V2 | 5+ | |
Intermediate | V3 | 6A |
6A+ | ||
V4 | 6B | |
6B+ | ||
V5 | 6C | |
V6 | 6C+ | |
7A | ||
Advanced | V7 | 7A+ |
V8 | 7B | |
7B+ | ||
V9 | 7C | |
V10 | 7C+ | |
Pro | V11 | 8A |
V12 | 8A+ | |
V13 | 8B | |
Monster | V14 | 8B+ |
V15 | 8C | |
V16 | 8C+ | |
V17 | 9A |
Indoor vs Outdoor Bouldering Grades
Climbing gyms have boulder problems created by the staff known as “route setters.” Setters are a group of climbers who design, install, and test each boulder they set to ensure it’s the proper grade they want to reach. However, sometimes you can go to a new gym and not climb any of the grades you can at your gym, or you find that they’re generally harder/easier.
The issue with indoor setting is that the setters are the only ones responsible for curating a boulder problem’s difficulty. If the headsetter is notoriously a “sandbag,” they’ll set problems harder than they should be. If they’re a “soft” setter, the boulders could be a little easier than the grades they’re labeled as.
An outdoor bouldering grade is initially determined by the first ascensionist (the person who climbs the boulder first). After this, the boulder will receive repeats from people all over (although mostly locals). These people will voice their opinion about the grade, usually somewhere like UK climbing or Mountain Project, until the original or a new grade is agreed upon.
Outdoor bouldering grades are typically more accurate to their difficulty level because they receive a wider range of climbers. I remember climbing V6 regularly at my home gym in Illinois before moving to Wyoming, where I could barely climb a V4. Part of why bouldering outside can feel more challenging, though, is because the holds aren’t always obvious, and there aren’t large bouldering mats everywhere.
Climbing Grades are Subjective
I was just at the gym the other day and climbed a V5-V7 boulder problem (my gym uses the grouping grading, so climbers don’t feel intimidated by the number on the wall). Anyway, I flashed this V5, great!
While I have flashed many V5s in the gym, my partner and I agreed that it did not feel like a V5. My buddy was the head-setter of our gym before we moved, so he has a good understanding of climbing grades, and while our gym usually does a good job, he can always point out how they can do better (yes, sometimes it’s frustrating climbing with him).
This is all to say that even though we have a consensus on climbing grades, they are ultimately subjective. There will always be those who believe some problems are easier/harder than they’re graded. Yes, that’s right! While a V3 may feel right to you, somebody else could think it’s only a V1 or V2.
Not all boulders are created equally! A V7 slab is going to be drastically different from an overhung V7. For example, one requires delicate technique, and the other may require incredible finger strength.
Often, climbers will only seek out problems that suit their climbing style, then complain when they can’t climb something of the same grade in a different style and quickly label it as sandbagged.
Don’t be like this. Understand that everyone has their own strengths and weaknesses regarding different climbing styles. If you can climb that V3 overhung with no problem but can’t figure out the body positioning for the same grade on a vertical route, it’s most likely not sandbagged; you just need to work on your weaknesses!
Conclusion: Bouldering Is What You Make It
There is no universal bouldering grade system, so there will always be discussion about how different climbs are relative to each other.
Remember that the angle of a boulder directly correlates to its grade. So when you can climb an overhung V5 but struggle on slab V4s, don’t blame the grading! Many climbers only hop on boulders that suit their strengths.
If you want to improve, practice getting out of your comfort zone. Hop on that boulder that you don’t think you can make a single move on – Who cares? Every climber falls, so you might as well try!
I like it when gyms reset a section of their bouldering wall and don’t grade it for a week. This encourages climbers to get on problems without worrying about the grades. Many people believe they can’t climb harder than they do, so they never try! Adopting this no-grading system forces climbers to choose boulder problems that look fun.
That’s what climbing is all about anyway, right? Having fun! It doesn’t matter what grade you’re climbing at so long as you enjoy yourself. If you’re around people who put you down for the grade you climb, then I can confidently tell you those are the wrong people to be around.
Whether you use the V Scale, Font grading, or even the UK grading system, we’re all climbers. What I love about rock climbing is that it lets you connect with people locally, but also across the globe. I may not understand somebody from Asia when they speak, but I can always understand the excitement in their voice after sending their project.
While it’s nice to use bouldering grades as a progression benchmark for your climbing, try not to get sucked into worrying about the grades too much! Climbing is supposed to be a fun expression that gets you moving your body, so remember to enjoy it!
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