I know what you may be thinking, “Bouldering etiquette? What are you talking about?”
If you’re a reasonably new climber, you may not practice proper bouldering etiquette, but we can change that. Whether climbing in the gym or at the crag, how you do so is important — I don’t mean your technique! Some of this list will seem obvious, like not walking under another climber, but others are more unspoken rules than anything.
When I first started climbing, I learned what not to do by doing the wrong things. I also didn’t realise the ‘dab police’ would be so relevant within my friend group. Don’t worry; none of these are the worst things you could do—except beta spraying… we never beta spray. Or leaving trash at the crag… or climbing on wet rock… Okay, maybe some are the worst things you could do…
Some of these tips are for your safety, and others ensure an enjoyable climbing experience for everyone around you. Labeling these from one to ten is hard because they’re all equally important in my book. Don’t take number one as more important than number eight, and don’t take number nine as less important than number three. With that in mind, check out our 10 rules you need to know about bouldering etiquette below!
Rule 1: Beta spraying
Beta spraying is likely one of the most unwelcome examples of improper bouldering etiquette. It involves offering unsolicited advice to other climbers, whether on the wall or not. We never want to do this.
Here are a few examples:
(Climber 1 in the middle of climbing a boulder problem)
Climber 2: “Put your foot there! Twist your hips, grab that hold like this! The next hold is a jug!”
(Climber 1 hanging out after falling off a problem)
Climber 2: “You know, next time, I think you need to grab that hold with your other hand. When I climbed this, I brought my feet over first, then reached up for that other hold.”
Proper bouldering gym etiquette includes asking a climber if they’d like any beta. If they say yes, tell them your thoughts or how you climbed that problem. If they say no, then leave it alone!
Part of why climbing is fun is because you must problem-solve. When you beta-spray, you take away somebody’s chance to figure it out for themselves.
Rule 2: Being in the fall zone
Bouldering rules are usually posted somewhere in the climbing gym. But in case you forgot, you should be far away from the wall whenever somebody climbs. This goes hand-in-hand with walking under somebody climbing. Not only is it distracting for the climber on the wall, but it’s dangerous for both parties. They don’t want to fall on you, and I’m sure you don’t want to get landed on!
Proper rock climbing etiquette includes peering around a wall to make sure nobody is climbing before walking through. Some gyms are jam-packed with walls, so your head must be on a swivel. People can fall from all different directions!
Unfortunately, if somebody falls on you, it is your fault. There’s no way around it. So, when hanging out on the mats, sit toward the edge away from the wall. Move your things, too, so nobody lands on your shoes and twists an ankle.
Rule 3: Check out the entire problem first
When bouldering in the gym, it’s easy to accidentally climb too close to somebody else. Many problems intersect or traverse across multiple climbs. There’s a way to ensure you don’t accidentally climb under or get too close to somebody else.
Before hopping on the wall, inspect the entire boulder problem. Follow the holds to see where it ends. This will help you understand where you should be heading and what kind of movement to plan for. It will also inform you if you should wait before hopping on the wall.
Do you see somebody on the purple problem that intersects the green one you want to try? Just wait until they’re done!
Rule 4: Brushing holds
This is proper bouldering gym etiquette, but also outdoor climbing etiquette. If somebody just finished brushing the holds of a climb, wait until they climb it before you hop on that problem. They likely weren’t brushing the holds for you, so wait your turn. Trust me, you’ll know if somebody is brushing holds for you because they’ll tell you!
If you’re bouldering outdoors, brush the holds of a climb after you’re done. This simple bouldering rule will help you create a sense of adventure for the next climber. If they wanted a map of the problem, they’d climb in the gym where the holds are all the same color.
Further, make sure you’re using a brush with soft bristles and aren’t overbrushing the rock, which can damage it. Horsehair or soft nylon are popular brushes.
Never use a wire brush to clean a boulder, as it will damage the rock.
Rule 5: Brush your tick marks
Bouldering etiquette includes brushing holds, yes, but also brushing your tick marks! A tick mark is an indicator with chalk for where the next hand or footholds are. They’re great to use when you have a hold around a bulge out of sight or for super tiny footholds. However, they also give away the problem for the next climber!
Not only are tick marks unsightly, but they also diminish the problem-solving aspect of climbing. Not brushing your tick marks is like beta spraying without using your words from far, far away. Keep climbing an adventurous activity and brush away your tick marks for the next boulderers.
Rule 6: Avoid climbing wet rock
I’m not sure why you’d want to climb on wet and slippery rock, anyway! There are a few types of rock that are prone to damage if climbed on when wet. Sandstone, gritstone, and other sedimentary rock types are famous for soaking moisture in wet conditions.
Proper rock climbing etiquette is avoiding these rock types for 48-72 hours after rain. Even then, the rock can still be wet, depending on the weather conditions. Holds can break more easily when the rock is wet, which can be dangerous when climbing. Plus, you would forever alter the climb for the following climbers.
Rule 7: Excessive noise/music
Music has a powerful way of helping us get psyched and try hard. However, music can also be an issue for other climbers. Keep the portable speaker in the car, or turn it down super low to ensure you aren’t distracting others.
Not only can unwanted music at the crag be distracting, but it can also be dangerous if played too loud. It’s rude and improper bouldering etiquette. The climbers and spotters must be able to communicate to ensure the climbers’ safety.
Also, everybody loves getting psyched when bouldering outdoors. But try not to yell and shout so much that everyone outside can hear you. They came outside to enjoy nature, so let them!
Rule 8: Leave no trace
Always and everywhere, leave no trace. The age-old saying “Pack it in, pack it out” applies to climbing everywhere outdoors. That involves your tick marks, too! Many climbing areas have been shut down by property owners because of a lack of respect from climbers. From leaving trash to damaging plants to stashing gear, there are many ways that climbers can have their access revoked from an area.
When bouldering outdoors, bring a sack dedicated to your trash. I prefer a dry sack that securely closes to keep anything messy away from the rest of my gear. Respect for nature and other’s property is the surest way to keep climbing access.
“Take only memories, leave only footprints.” – Chief Seattle.
Rule 9: Respect others psych!
You may not be in the zone, but there’s no reason to bring others out of theirs! When somebody is super excited about climbing, one of the rudest things to do is to take them down a notch. I know it sucks when you’re not climbing well, but don’t force your negative energy onto others. Plus, that’s climbing; not every day will be your best!
Practice good bouldering etiquette and be happy for others! You didn’t send your project, but that girl just flashed hers? Awesome! Our climbing achievements don’t measure us, so we steal joy from ourselves when we compare ourselves to others.
A common way people do this without realising it is when they say the grade somebody sent was ‘soft.’ Soft refers to a climb being easier than its given grade or on the easier end of that grade. Who cares if it’s soft? Keep that type of talk to yourself and let others enjoy their sends!
Rule 10: The dab police!
To ‘Dab’ is to accidentally use a foothold not on the problem you’re working on to help you send. Or, touching the ground with your foot after you start climbing. Don’t be that climber who shouts across the gym when they see somebody dabbing. Don’t even bring it up; their climbing has nothing to do with you!
There are only two exceptions to this rule:
- A climber is being arrogant about their send
- You’re messing around with your friends!
If a climber boasts about how they easily sent some boulder problem and is being rude, they may need a reality check.
There is never a reason to be rude to others, so I don’t mind calling people out when they do so.
If my buddy and I are competitive, you better believe I’m calling out his dab! I’ll only do this with friends, though. It’s also fun to shout, “Dab,” when they’re on the wall and haven’t even remotely dabbed. Objectively, climbing is a strange activity; people wrestling with boulders? Keep it light-hearted!
Now you know
Now that you know proper bouldering etiquette, you can create a positive and respectful space during each climbing session. Remember that these aren’t labeled from important to least important. They’re all equally important and should be followed every time you climb.
While some rules are about being a good person, others ensure everyone has a safe experience. Getting injured is never fun, but injuries due to other’s ignorance are way worse. They’re injuries that could’ve been avoided, so look above you!
Well, it sounds like you’re ready to go bouldering! If you had to label these in order of importance, let us know in the comments which rule is your number one!
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