Are you daydreaming of climbing the legendary sandstone boulders of Fontainebleau? You are at the right place, the right time. This guide will take you through everything – from the brief history of bouldering in Fontainebleau, to the best boulder problems, where to stay, and what to do on rest days.
A brief history of bouldering in Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau is the place where the bouldering revolution started. Located in France, south of Paris, this wonderful forest is the place where, back in the 19th century, French alpine climbers used to come and train for alpine expeditions.
Over time, Fontainebleau became a bouldering paradise. Nowadays, it’s renowned for its beautiful sandstone, technical challenges, and various boulder problems for all levels.
Moreover, the Fontainebleau grading system was developed in the Fontainebleau forest near Paris, France, and is considered a benchmark for bouldering difficulty. The grades start with very easy problems and currently go up to about 9a for the hardest problems.
Check out some Fontainebleau Boulders 4 (V0) to 6C (V5):
Navigating the circuits
Fontainebleau’s bouldering areas are organized into colour-coded circuits, each indicating a specific difficulty range. These circuits are marked with painted arrows and numbers, guiding climbers through a series of problems.
- White: Beginners/kids
- Yellow: Easy
- Orange: Moderate
- Blue: Hard
- Red: Very Difficult
- Black: Extremely Difficult
The best time to go to Fontainebleau
The very best seasons for bouldering in Font are usually Autumn (September-October) and Spring (April-May). However, as with everything, it depends on what you want to get out of this climbing trip.
Summers can be very hot, but if you plan to chill and boulder with friends and family and occasionally get some sun tan after you top out easy boulders and circuits, then summer it is!
On the other hand, winters can be very cold with crisp conditions. However, if you go there to try and send hard boulder problems, you’ll need the best friction you can get.
Therefore, the cold season might be ideal! Watch where to begin:
The best boulders to climb in Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau is home to an incredible array of bouldering sectors, each unique in style, scenery, and challenges in terms of climbing. Among them, Bas Cuvier and Roche aux Sabots stand out as two of the most iconic and widely visited spots – both are must-sees for any climber visiting the area.
That said, these areas can get very busy, especially on weekends and holidays. If you’re looking for a more peaceful session, aim to climb mid-week.
Bas Cuvier, in particular, is one of the most historic and accessible sectors in the forest. It’s home to legendary problems like La Marie Rose (6A), widely recognized as the first problem of its grade in Fontainebleau and an essential tick for many climbers.
Bouldering sectors close to INSEAD (Fontainebleau town area):
- La Calvaire – A fantastic beginner-friendly sector with a great mix of yellow, orange, and blue problems. Its proximity to a hiking trail and calm setting make it perfect for a relaxed climbing day.
- Mont Ussy / Roche Hercule – Just minutes away from campus, this small yet scenic area features mostly orange and red blocs, with a few yellows. It’s an ideal spot for short, casual sessions.
- Mont Aigu – The closest bouldering spot to INSEAD, and very beginner-friendly. Ideal for a quick climb between classes or after work.
Sectors in the Fontainebleau Forest (Short Drive from Town)
- Apremont – A major bouldering area featuring a wide range of styles, from delicate slabs to pumpy overhangs. Suitable for intermediate to advanced climbers.
- Rocher Canon – Awesome spot with 564 boulders of all levels, beautiful lines, and easy to get to by train. The nearby hiking trails and varied terrain make it great for groups and families.
- Franchard Isatis (Centre) – is one of the all-time favorite sectors for climbers visiting Fontainebleau and for good reason: the approach is effortless, and you’ll find problems which are ideal for groups with mixed abilities. At the very beginning of the sector, you bump into some iconic lines such as Sur-Prises, a powerful line put up by none other than Marc Le Ménestrel. Try it and you’ll get a better grasp of the sector’s style.
However, if you’re not quite ready for that level yet, here’s our recommended list:
- Le Tete du Toutou (Font 3), Mozzarella and Le Statique (Font 4), Ventru (Font 5), Casse-Croute and Le Poire (Font 5+), La Farine (Font 6a), L’Incommode (Font 6a+), Zip Zut and Canonball (gauche) (Font 6b), Beurre Marge (might be a slap in the face) (Font 6b), Composition des Forces (Font 6c), Nezzundorma (Font 6c+), La Grisaille and Treenee (Font 7a), L’Angle Bens (Font 7a+).
- Bas Cuvier – As mentioned, this is Fontainebleau’s most historic and famous bouldering area. It’s a must-visit, packed with a huge number of problems in a variety of grades. Easy access, child-friendly terrain, and world-class boulders. But be prepared for crowds and polished holds.
- Trois Pignons – If you’re climbing at the blue level, this is your spot. Beginner friendly, beautiful sandy floors make it welcoming to the rest of your less-climbing family. The grades here are climber-friendly, so it’s maybe a great place to start with. Or, if you are looking for a confidence booster, great to finish with. At Trois Pignons, you’ll find the iconic Cul de Chien boulder and a great mix of problems for climbers of all levels.
Check out this video for the best boulders in Fontainebleau in the 7/8 range.
Where to stay in Fontainebleau
Ever since the area has become so popular, for preservation reasons, wild camping with a tent or campervan is not allowed in the forest or the forest parking. However, there are many options available for all pockets:
- Gîtes: BLOasis, Gîte Franchard, TheHouse, Holiday for climbers at Bois le roi, where you can also rent crash pads and Chalet Paradis
- Hostels: A new hostel has recently opened in La Chappelle-la-Reine, Fontainebleau. It offers dormitory and private rooms as well as the option to camp in their garden with full use of the kitchen and common room. There’s also the option to rent boulder mats too, and it’s right next to a Patisserie, which is a definite bonus!
- Campsites: La Musardiere at Milly la Forêt, and Le Pres at Grez-sur-Loing. La Musardiere is a bit more expensive than some of the other campsites in the forest, but it is within walking distance of bouldering. Moreover, it comes with a swimming pool, which is quite awesome for hot summer days. And also, a good choice if you don’t have a car. Le Pres at Grez-sur-Loing is a large campsite owned by an English speaker. You have various camping options, including a BBQ area you can use. Campsites are generally open from the end of February to the middle of November, and facilities usually include an indoor kitchen/lounge, boulder pad rentals. Fires are allowed in specific locations, and free boxes to charge mobile phones. Find more information on Camping de France.
All you need to know before going bouldering in Fontainebleau
Rest days in Fontainebleau
Bouldering is life, but life doesn’t stop at climbing. That being said, Fontainebleau is not just about climbing. There are plenty of activities to do on rest days, such as hiking, MTB, or horse riding.
You can’t leave Fontainebleau before you visit Paris. A perfect rest day activity is a trip to Paris, where you’ll find world-class museums, art galleries, endless shopping, and fantastic restaurants, not to mention the Eiffel Tower or Champs-Élysées.
Even if you have a car, the easiest way to get there is by train, which drops you at Gare de Lyon in the heart of the city. If you’re traveling with children – or just feeling young at heart – Disneyland Paris is another great option, located just an hour to the north.
If you are not interested in Paris, consider visiting the magnificent Château de Fontainebleau. With over 1,500 rooms set on 130 acres of parkland and gardens, this former royal residence housed French monarchs from Louis VII to Napoleon III. It’s a stunning and historically rich destination, well worth exploring on a rest day.
Check out Fontainebleau Tourism for more information.
Where to climb on rainy days
KARMA Gym and Le Rempart are great for indoor climbing sessions.
Cultural immersion – food
French markets are not just a place to shop – they’re a place to immerse yourself in the French culture. For this, we highly recommend you visit the Fontainebleau market every Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday morning.
You’ll get an authentic regional experience with fresh and seasonal products, artisan food, and things. Not to mention, French markets are vibrant, noisy, and colourful, where street musicians sometimes play music.
Climbing Guidebook and shop
- The Fun Bloc guidebook will take you to the very best spots in Fontainebleau. We would recommend this book to everyone, especially to those new climbers to Fontainebleau.
- 27crags is a really good alternative if you don’t feel like carrying around a book with you. On their website, you can find up-to-date information and feedback on climbing sectors, photos, bouldering routes, parking details, and directions to get there, among other helpful resources.
Tips for a successful bouldering trip
1. Start slow: I always say the best way to get to know a new sector or crag and to have a good experience is to start easy and modest. Just so you get a taste of the local style. Bleau is no exception!
Font grading is pretty tough for everyone, especially if you climb more indoors, so don’t take it personal. Proof is the great Adam Ondra, who fell on a 6a Font problem. We’re all mortals here.
2. Mind the weather: The sandstone becomes slippery when wet and can take time to dry. Plan climbs during dry periods and avoid damaging the rock by climbing on it when it’s wet.
3. Respect the environment: When it comes to ways of reaching crags and boulders, it is best to stick to established paths. As for climbing, clean chalk marks at the end of the day, and leave the place as you found it – that means taking the trash with you.
4. Safety first:
- Some of the routes are very polished by times, be EXTRA CAREFUL and clean your shoes before taking on a problem!
- Fontainebleau is generally a safe area, including the town itself and the surrounding forest where most bouldering takes place. However, it’s better to be mindful of your belongings! Never leave valuables in your car, and leave the glove compartment open to show there’s nothing worth taking.
- Remember to be mindful and park respectfully, keep noise to a minimum, and above all, leave no trash behind.
- Make sure you use crash pads, always check the landing areas, and have other climbers spot you.
5. Skin care: From my experience, you’ll probably want to climb more than your usual rhythm when on a bouldering trip. This means your skin will suffer.
To prevent this, make sure you read our guide on how to look after your climber’s hands. In this article, you’ll find the tips and tricks and the best products you can use to help your skin recover faster, such as Crimp Oil, Rhino Skin, or Kletter Retter Repair Balm.
Bonus tip
Watch this video and find out everything there is to know before you get there.
Need to stock up on bouldering gear before you go? At Boulderflash, we have a wide variety of crash pads, chalk, climbing shoes, skin moisturisers, and more.
Final thoughts
Visiting a place such as Fontainebleau can be as overwhelming as it is exciting. And how could it be otherwise? The forest has over 20,000 boulder problems, and I bet you are psyched to climb everything. Don’t you worry – we’ve been there, and we know two weeks is not enough to do everything. But that’s good news because it means I’ll be motivated to get back.
A thing is certain: you don’t know bouldering until you’ve gone to Fontainebleau.
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